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+1 to checking that the poppet and dip-tube aren't obstructing your disconnect. As to the lid not sealing, I've had luck with getting a softer, larger O-ring (e.g., http://www.williamsbrewing.com/OVERSIZE-KEG-LID-SEALING-O-RING-P58.aspx).

The purpose is to carbonate the juice while it is still in the fruit? How does this change the experience of eating the fruit? What PSI did you use?

Did you vent the line/keg attached to the secondary after adjusting the pressure to a lower level?

The exterior dimension is listed as smaller than the interior dimension. Thanks for generating and tabulating all this information. I'm finding it very helpful when considering my keezer design.

In.

What size are your 3gal kegs (diameter)? What size cooler did you get? I thought I got the identical Igloo cooler (70qts) and my 3gal cornies don't fit...

Do line it with plastic sheeting. I had my compressor die and my coils defrost over the course a couple weeks while I was gone. The foam insulation grew some mildew -- it would have been much easier to just remove a plastic liner than all the insulation. The same would apply to accidental beer...

I saw AIH has a reasonable price on new 2.5gal and on heavily used 3gal: http://www.homebrewing.org/

Me too.

Count me in.

I am in.

Ok, sooooo, it seems that I know some machinists who would be able to turn down some modern stainless steal shanks and then rethread (I feel that the insert and structure of the tower make the drill press option unfavorable). My question now is what do I want them to be rethreaded to? I see...

Pictures of the old brass mushroom tower I'm restoring to some sort of shinier, functioning condition.

Ale Asylum Hopalicious New Glarus Fat Squirrel

The insert (which of course I didn't see until I uploaded the pics) does in fact go all the way through, but the resulting hole would not be large enough for a standard sized shank from what I understand. The resulting hole would be about 13/16" while a standard shankis 7/8" in diameter. 1/16"...

Here are some pics

I was thinking of trying to have that done to a normal shank, but I was wondering if anyone here with more knowledge would have a ballpark on what that would cost.

The faucets are standard, but I'd be upgrading them anyway.

Working on the pics.

I think I'm about 4 (errr...3 now) away from being able to post pictures of this.