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What is the difference between yours and brand the new one for $1268? http://conical-fermenter.com/CF40TW-WH-FV.html

This is all accurate. The only thing I can add is to get full port ball valves if you can, since standard port reduces flow too.

Would a reducer work instead of drilling? https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/440039-131280

What if you put the blowoff tube like 1/2" or 1" under the lid on the side? Would that keep the krausen below the lid so a perfectly tight seal wouldn't matter so much? That does limit your liquid level, though, so it might not work.

Is the blichmann one not the same threading as this? http://www.williamsbrewing.com/HURRICANE-BURNER-LPG-GAS-VALVE-P2690.aspx That williams brewing one worked perfectly for my NG conversion of a BG-14, which is what it looks like all of these burners are, although I ended up drilling the...

OP, what size orifice do you have on your BG 14s? Drilled mine out to 1/8" and they seem fine but I'm all for improving their output

Sorry if I missed this, by you are putting a sump pump in, right? That can help with your drainage too.

Take a look at the wiring diagram and find where those come from and where they are supposed to go? http://www.beverage-air.com/images/barEquipment/manuals/BB%20manual.pdf

If a 1/16th won't fit you have he high pressure orifice. You're fine.

It's all about the orifice size. You'll get less BTUs because NG burns cooler, but you can make practically any burner work from propane to NG if you increase the orifice size, and therefore the gas volume to the burner. I have exactly that burner and converted it to NG - works great! E...

20 minutes is probably fine, remember I didn't insulate my fermenter probe so it was at least half exposed to fridge air. I'm doing another one in the next week or so and will actually insulate that probe so I bet it runs a lot less.

Probably a good point, I didn't think that one through.

Is there any reason why you wouldn't just put another wye in those hot water heater exhaust vents and take advantage of that? Aren't they right next to the floor drain you were thinking about?

It's been working well. It kicks on roughly every 30 minutes for 3 minutes (mandatory BrewPi min run time - of that 3 minutes, only about 1 is necessary) at a time, although I think that's in part due to the fact that I didn't insulate teh temp probe on the fermenter. My next batch, I'll do...

I don't know a ton about this yet, so of course do what you want. But here's the profile of a cold crash with one 11g fermenter and two better bottles cold crashing in my GDM-12. The blue dark blue horizontal bars are the compressor running, the light blue is mandatory wait time to prevent...

I'm pretty sure you need it to run more often than that to prevent the evap coils from building up ice. At least, I read that in my research but never tested it with the cover off to see.

I have a GDM 12 and it is trivial. The compressor at the bottom has a standard plug, so you just insert your temp controller there and then the evap coil fan runs all the time, and will actually heat your fridge too.

BG14s will work fine on NG. Make sure there's no clog on the orifice, check your NG pressure and look for restrictions in your hose. To check the orifice for clogs, stick a drill bit smaller than the orifice through from the gas side. To check pressure, fill a container of water to over a...

Probably too late, but interested in the kegs and maybe the lid

Right, I didn't think the lid could be tapped. These might work, but do you think an o-ring is enough, or should I do the usual weldless washer/gasket thing? I guess there's no big deal trying this, since if it fails I can always go to the backup plan of a camlock on a weldless bulkhead...