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I'm probably going to go the growler route, a couple maybe 3-64oz ones should do, as long as they are vacuum insulated. I've been looking at this from MIIR https://www.miir.com/products/the-growler or apparently these Ozark Trail ones from walmart are the same as the Yeti Jugs -...

Anyone know where I can get the stainless attachment that fits in the Perlick 525ss to fill growlers with? Seems nobody has them in stock even https://www.brewhardware.com/ doesn't seem to have them anymore which is my go-to place for hardware!!

So I’m only thinking of bringing enough beer for 4 or 6 adults to have at most 2 pints. If I go the 128oz growler route - do you get the pressure-izable ones? If not how do you keep it from ending up flat...maybe just taking a gallon across town won’t go flat that fast?

Was thinking of getting one of these cannonball kits for parties at friends houses etc. What do you do to travel with some of your bev's? https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/cannonball-system-mini-regulator

That’s an idea there. Thanks!

So no option to clean without wasting CO2? Seems all the ideas here require a pressurized system. I was hoping for a way to do it without pressurizing since I don’t have co2 to waste (hence my title)

I'm just getting setup and am going to build one of those hand pumps to clean my lines....but unfortunately I didn't think of this before my keg's kicked and now I need to clean them. Any decent way to get by for a few days until I can build the hand pump?

yes they are 1/4" barb...the gas line is BEVLEX 204 which has a 5/16" ID. I was concerned it was not going to work but I gave it a shot anyway given its only 1/16" difference and the relatively low pressures. I think the key was to use Oetiker 14.5 clamps which gives a complete 360 degree...

The taprite regulator has check valves (at least the model I got did. The white things are disconnects so I can easily swap a tank. They are self sealing as well. Good for liquid or gas.

Atlantic Brew Supply out of Raleigh.

you posted at the same time I was posting my clarified question. I think you've answered it...as long as I have a hot-swappable tank I can run it down to pretty much empty.

Thanks - I wasn't very clear in my original question...I have another tank that is full. So I'm just wondering when do I switch it...when it hits red or when it's at 0. I'll then get the tank exchanged ($20 where I'm at for 5lb)

Still on my first co2 tank...but when am I supposed to change the tank based off the gauge? When it hits the red zone or 0psi? Seems like a dumb question but the red zone in the gauge says to change it then.

What is the difference between the two versions? Is it the better sensors and battery life?

Wondering if anyone has a tilt hydrometer they are willing to let go?

I recently started brewing my own beer...I'm a data nerd by trade...another passion is being frugal (ultimately what drove me to making beer in the first place - a 4pk now in the grocery for 14bucks is rich). Anyway - I'm wondering what tech you guys are using be it for the cool factor or...

No. I decided I really don’t have the space for a keezer so I just built a mini fridge kegerator.

That would probably work pretty well. For $60 plus a little angle I could probably rig up somewhere to mount the burner.

Humm the handtruck thought is an interesting idea. I wonder if I could bolt up some slotted angle iron from Lowes/HD. Or even a wheelbarrow concept might work...just take the bucket part out of the wheelbarrow

So, I've brewed about 10 batches and have graduated to BIAB all grain, 15gallon spike kettle and blichman hellfire burner. I don't have a lot of space and so I mostly carry out my burner - blichman hellfire, immersion chiller, pump, hoses, 15 Gallon Spike kettle, fermenter from my crawlspace...