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I guess I don't appreciate LED light, never had a problem using one w/o one. Sorry for the low ball, good luck.

$25 shipped, I saw a few on eBay at that price.

Where in NY?

They're on eBay. The green medical ones dispense in liters per minute. They have a psi gage AND on the end you twist a knob that set the L per min. I see one now for $8 and if it's like the one I have it fits standard welding tanks. On my phone or I'd link the one I just saw.

The guy running this place came to our club meeting, he's trying to build the hop growing industry in NY and the northeast. Maybe drop him a line. http://www.atlantichops.com

I'm really happy to hear that this book is being written and that's it by you! Are you happy with the projected release date or do you want the HBT forces to push it to come out sooner, I know I'd like sooner!

Pm sent

http://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=20

So, they ARE marked on both plug and outlet, it's small but they are consistently marked allowing you to establish Leg 1 & 2, neutral and ground and wiring that way consistently throughout. But regardless of how well marked any component is or how sure you are that follow your digram I would...

Could be wrong but I think the two of you might be talking about different thing: wiring the plug/outlets (panel assembly) and brew day set up

Certainly don’t use anything that doesn’t feel right to you, that’s the nice part of DYI systems. If you want that click when you push them together you can simply file the catch point with a flat file but what you will also add is adding “wiggle room” to the connection in order to get that...

Woknblues: I did almost the same but w/ Barid's C155° instead of special B And no honey malt. What was your SG and FG?

I solder it just because I like soldering (I'm a jeweler), I'm thinking that a simpler way for most would be to drill the hole in the metal part (you know what part I mean, right?) and then use a self-tapping stove screw and a ring terminal. One of these:

You are right about PVC but the PVC on mine does not get hot at all, the BK is a huge heat sink that pulls all the heat from the element, the housing gets slightly warm to the touch from the radiant heat coming off the kettle wall and nothing more, at least this is how mine is...

If a PVC cap is ghetto then that's where I'm at. I finally got the chance to brew and snap some low rez. photos of my new housing on my BK. The junction box type is fine for my HLT because I don't remove it to often but now as soon as I drain the BK I remove the element and clean it with a...

I think he gave up on update it, no point as soon as he offers them they are gone. If you sign up you'll get email from Al at Princeton Homebrew when ECY is available for mail order. I got one yesterday, lots available and I'm sure they were gone in minutes... You need to join the Google group...

How many good size centennial rhizomes can be shipped for $5.95?

Isn't Jester King in Austin? I believe they have a 100% brett saison. Could be wrong but about that but they have a lot of funky beers to think about harvesting from.

Smoked beers mellow quite it bit over time and I'd think over 12-18 month it would smooth out quite a bit. You could initially go light on the smoke malt and always blend a stander smoked porter back adding both smoke and sweet. Just a thought and I never tried it with a sour beer but it worked...

Yes, I drill a hole in big nut thing on the element. I have tank spuds from brewhardware.com welded in so I have just one oring on the out side no shims.