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I'd like a coupon please. Best of luck.

The link to your search didn't work for me when I tried just now, what I did when I was looking was search: (As always, click on the image for a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper 11" x 17") I don't know if this will find them all or not but i found what I was looking for (thank...

This is the same one (50w per sq. inch = ULWD) and fits a 14" tank so it is less then 14". When I get home I can get you the exact installed length if the helps. It’s less expensive too. http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/2923-4500W-240V-FLD-Elemen-p/565426.htm

Yes, if the hole you puntched is really low it may not work to use spuds but do check, the curved bottom of the keg might work to your advantige. Hold the element in place and spin.

Really, mine was $2 more at $51.50?

I say go with the spuds from bobby and solder or weld (or have them welded) on, they'll look good and will be more solid then a stack of washers and oring.

These 4500w fold back elements are 50 watts per sq. inch, I think that makes them ULWD might be good for what your thinking about doing. http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/2923-4500W-240V-FLD-Elemen-p/565426.htm

Stick it (please)!

I couldn't eather. P-J you've spoiled us (and I thank you for that).

I'm sure he's just done explaning why this switch within it's limits for this build. I've seen him explain it 2-3 time and I follow the logic and am using it in my build. Use the search for "part# 2TPF8" I'm sure you (or anyone else) who would like his full run down will find it. Or ask for the...

Are the images in post #18 of the HLT and BK? I ask because all the elements are non-ripple, were you able to find straght, (non-ripple) 5500w ULWD @ or about 50 watts per square inch elements at HD, or any where for that matter? This is what I'm looking for.

PM JREMS if you have (still have) questions on add this display to your CP, he has the same one in his and it is very helpful, I plan to use the same on my build.

Try ebay, I found 60 feet for $80, it should be here by thursday. I'll let you know what I think once it arives.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/can-you-brew-recipe-ommegang-rare-vos-307934/

That was my plan, well switching between HLT & MLT (not planing for one in the BK). But now I wonder what would be a good switch to do this?

Now, what are the advantages of having 2 PIDs, SSR, contactors when one can only fire one element at a time?

Not P-J but was it the one on this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/thinking-about-converting-276279/

Nice to see you're up and running. I think I'll be starting a build like yours in a few week, did you stick to the diagram in your initial thread? I think the only difference from it for me will be 22mm buttons for the pumps and pid and a large temp readout that I can see from across the room...

Great post, not like many other builds on here. Will you provied more details on the Arduino Micro Controller and other parts used for control?

I'll be that someone else. So, should the question to Switchcraft be: HPCC4F HPCP41F Can these connectors be used in the supplying of 220 Volts, 30 amps of power to a 5500w heating element? If not, then please suggest how to re-word the question (believe it’s really closer to 23 amps...