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I've never heard of this rule of thumb, and I highly doubt it could be correct. 3/16" tubing has roughly four times the resistance per foot of 1/4" tubing. Thus, it wouldn't make sense to only have twice as long of a line when switching from 3/16" to 1/4".

Your system isn't balanced. Switch to 3/16" ID line and I bet your problems resolve. Start at 12' and decrease length as needed if you find your pours are too slow. For me, 10' of 3/16" ID line running 12 psi is perfect.

Awesome story! Glad to hear it tasted great after all those years.

I've always been into fitness, and have a full gym in my basement, so this does give me an unfair advantage in this situation. However, the general premise is the same. Usually I don't work out during brewing, but I have a few times when I know I'll be pinched for time later to do it. I'll...

My wife and I brew together, but I'm definitely the one running the brew sessions. Of course, that makes sense, since I had started brewing years before we met, and I was her introduction into brewing.

I disagree with your premise, not your method. There is an argument for both thin and thick mashes. A mash thickness of 1.25 qt/lb put into either a mash tun with no deadspace or a gallon of deadspace is still 1.25 qt/lb. If you add extra water to compensate for your gallon of deadspace...

Ten days is quick, but not unheard of for an ale, particularly an IPA. Just make sure you check a second gravity to ensure it is not still fermenting. I would also cold crash for more than 24 hours. I've found that one day doesn't do much. I usually cold crash for 2-3 days.

No offense, but your advice is incorrect. If you add an extra gallon, your mash thickness will be thinner than 1.4 qt/lb. It doesn't matter how thick or thin the mash feels when you are stirring. It only matters what the ratio of water to grain is, regardless of whether you have a false bottom...

There are two options, depending upon the type of racking cane holder you have. You can attach it to the racking cane just above the holder, and that keeps it from sliding down any further. If your racking can has a lip, you can put the worm clamp over that as well.

Looks great! I like your stir bar too. Where did you get it?

The amount of deadspace should really only affect your lauter volume, not the mash volume. However, if you find that there isn't enough water to cover your grains, you'll need to compensate. If you add a gallon to your mash, you'll create a thinner (higher qt/lb) mash, since the water is still...

Best thing I did to stop this from happening was to start kegging! Seriously though, a worm clamp on the racking cane works great, and is easy to take on/off.

Looking great! Keep it coming!

I think you're kegging prematurely. I saw in your other thread where you said you were drinking lager 2 weeks from brew day. My guess is that when you leave your glass sit overnight, it warms up, some last fermentation takes place, and it then settles on the bottom. That's the only thing that...

Although there are heavy restrictions on alcohol sale and distribution, the laws of supply and demand, the cornerstone of a free market, are still at work.

There's no way two liquid yeast vials would even be close to the cell counts of a three step starter, ending at 5 L, unless your technique is way off. For liquid yeasts, it will almost always be cost effective to make a starter, as opposed to buying multiple vials. For dry yeasts, I've done the...

And what is up with the price of the larger bomber bottles? They seem to average around $15 per bottle, with prices regularly $20++. That's insane, and outside of maybe some several-year aged sours, just simply isn't justifiable. I don't buy them. If people are buying, more power to the brewery...

Keep in mind, this is only my opinion on it. There are no absolutes in brewing.

Your bitterness is close to an APA, but you're using a trappist yeast, and a low OG, with a low FG. 25 IBUs is not that high, but for the "style," it may seem out if place, particularly for that hop. 20 minute addition will provide some flavor, some bitterness, but not great for either, which...

Are you using brewing software to calculate your IBUs? Or are you just guesstimating? If you are doing the latter, do yourself a favor and get some software. I use Brewsmith, which, in my opinion, is the best software out there. If you want something free, three are a lot of web based ones out...