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In order to do a full boil I want to do two 2.5 gallon IPA batches. What I am looking for are hop aggressive in your face IPAs. Not mouth puckering bitterness, but more of the hop punch/flavor characteristics. I also want to experiment with two hop profiles. To do so I am going to use the same...

In order to do a full boil I want to do two 2.5 gallon IPA batches. What I am looking for are hop aggressive in your face IPAs. Not mouth puckering bitterness, but more of the hop punch/flavor characteristics. I also want to experiment with two hop profiles. To do so I am going to use the...

thank you for the advice, anyone have any input on this particular hop combo?? sounds tasty to me, wondering if anyone has any experience. And what hops would you guys reccommend for the dryhop?

this is extract...also I don't have a pot big enough for full-boil, so im boiling in a 4-gallon pot so about 3.25 gallons in the boil. (i used beersmith to formulate this, so my hops being used are in larger quantities then if i was doing a full boil) 9# light dme .5# crystal 10L 1oz chinook...

this was all extract /w specialty grains 6 lb. Gold LME 1 lb. Light DME 8 oz. Carapils 8 oz. Caramel 60L specialty grains also its been in the same temperature about 68 the whole time. (though for the first day of fermentation it was about 72 for awhile, then i cooled it down a little)

Yea thats my fault, I actually read something online about moving it to secondary once the yeast fall and krausen stops. Obviously this is false and not what you should do. Will there be enough yeast to get close to finishing and bottling?

Im brewing a pale ale and im not sure if my fermentation might be stuck. I pitched with munton's dry yeast that i rehydrated. (Didnt have any liquid yeast, really wanted to brew). Fermentation took off very rapidly and slowed down 4 days later. I racked to secondary at this mark (this was an...