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I think between Crow and OakIsland, I'll just stick with the chill and wait method after all. I do love all of the info here though, if i ever really need to consider it later, I now have a great thread of information to draw from :)

No, I'm not sure I need to add finings. My beer seems to clear up pretty nicely after a week in the keg to be honest. I'm just experimenting with stuff and things to learn how to do it all. When i transfer to my keg I do it under pressure, so I don't want to open the keg lid to add it all...

ok, the cooling coil temp area hit 47.9 and wasn't dropping much more than that. Seemed to be fighting the beer temp over and over. Maybe if i'd given it more time, it'd of managed it but I needed to get it in the fridge. However, I'd say that even with that tiny coil, 47.9 in there wasn't half...

I've been reading about gelatin additions to help clear up beer, but not entirely sure how I could add the gelatin without opening up the keg or fermenter (not sure when I'm supposed to add it yet either). So I was looking on brewhardware.com and found this...

ok, since I'm planning to cold crash my oktoberfest now, I've decided to put this cooling coil through its paces first. Set the inkbird down to 42 F. Water in the cooler is down to 39 F. Let's see if the outside temp on the FV drops down that far. I'll take a pic if i can later to show what it's...

See doug's response for the sugar amounts. As for pressurizing, just get the beer in there, and then pressurize the keg to 12 psi so the lid seals nice and tight and then you're done. Leave it in storage and let it carbonate with the sugar. I second T Murph's advice about floating dip tubes...

If they're going to sit for a few weeks in the keg, then I believe you could carbonate them with some sugar, no need to force carb them. Or if you enjoy wasting C02 on kegs, then just hook up a C02 tank to them and let them carbonate at room temp and serving pressure over a few weeks.

ok, I timed the pump today. 1m 45.6s to go from 54 to 53. The little ones were definitely longer, but they also take up less space in the cooler. So I'll switch back to them once I get all the tubing redone with the bulkheads and such all set up.

Oh, no, I wasn't feeling criticized. Just wanted to explain what I had on hand with regards to the pumps. Actually after using the bigger sump pump, I think it works better to be honest. The smaller pumps seemed to switch on and run for about 5 minutes before the temp went back down to 53 at...

I have some little 550gph aquarium pumps and a 2000ish gph sump pump (got this one recently to test out on my immersion chiller to see if it helps cooling efficiency of the wort after a boil). Currently it's connected to the sump pump. But the connectors aren't the issue. I want to run the 1/2"...

ok, here's what I'm thinking: Cut out the 5/8" OD tube from the pump entirely. Get some 1/2" OD pump connectors to go from the pump, then connect that to a bulkhead coupler (1/2" OD to 1/2" OD), then connect the outside 1/2" tube to a 1/2" to 5/16" reducer. Then connect 5/16" tube from the...

Yeah, they seem to only be for air. However, I did a fair bit of reading and people seem to use them for water too, without leaks. Funnily enough the description on amazon no longer mentions the use of water for the ones i bought either. Just air. Which I find a little odd. Anyway, they appear...

Thanks for the info, Closet. I'm definitely no expert on this stuff. I was thinking more along the lines of how plumbers reduce the pipe diameter gradually to reduce stress and thought maybe it would apply here too. The problem is, my pumps are sump and pond pumps, none of them come with the...

Some lessons I've learned this week: 1. If you make your tubing too long, then your pump will cry and probably break, or just not have the ability to pump the water through properly. So make sure you only have enough tubing for the application. 2. To help the water flow, rather than have 3/16"...

What size foundry did you get? If you're one of the lucky ones that's got the 10.5, then nice one, since you can't buy them for love or money at the moment.

Here's the pic of the quick disconnects I tried: They work great, just with the already small amount of water flow, these are restricting it just that little bit more. Maybe it doesn't matter enough, maybe it's just my perception. Just seems to take a little longer to hit the temp I set...

Ok, the ones i ordered were a bit of a let down. The quick disconnects work amazing. I love the way they click and you just press a little metal bit to release them. They even have built in shut off valves to stop anything flowing out of them after they're disconnected. The drawback is they...

Ran into another pitfall with the cooling coil too. Two actually: First is if anyone does this setup with this cool, then get some sort of quick disconnect connectors. That way it’ll be a lot easier to disconnect the cooling tubes from your coil in/out. I actually ordered a different type of...

Hope not :D I'd say there was still about half a bladder full. Made me chuckle when i tried to squeeze it all in the fridge though :D

Just another little find to add here... I moved my bucket to the kegerator to cold crash it. Well, the cold crash guardian C02 bladder was so full it wouldn't fit in the fridge :D Hoping I haven't squeezed out too much that things go bad. But just an fyi for others that may be trying something...