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What's's the ideal frig temp for kegged beer? Also, I assum its fine to put the CO2 tank in fridge? My current temp in the fridge is 40 degrees. I was thinking of bringing up to 45 degrees.

OK, probably a very common sense question, but I need to ask. When adding extract at kegging, here's my plan. Before kegging, take a 2 oz sample of the beer. Then add one drop of extract, taste and see if it's good. Assuming one drop is good for the 2 ounces, and my keeging volume is 4.5...

Well, I've noticed that the All Grain kits offer a good opportunity. For example, I just order the all grain kit for Ferocious IPA. Cost was $37.00 I was going to go to my LHBS to purchse the ingrediants for a SCALED DOWN batch (2 gallons) of the recipe. I would of spent around $35 for that...

Problem solved. I had the wrong equipment profile set up for the recipe. My equipment is an 8 gallon brew pot and 10 gallon mash tun. I found a profile that comes close to mine. Can I actually make it exact? I's love to have my profile as 8 gallon pot and 10 gallon tun.

I know that if you choose to batch sparge in lieu of fly sparging, you generally need to increase your grains a bit to compensate. On a % basis, how much do you need to increase the grains when batch sparging? 5%, 10%??

Based on the ratio you listed, it does appear that Beersmith has the mash in and mash out quarts correct. I can't how mashing with nearly 2 gallons of water will only yield .79 of a gallon of wort. I'm guessing that I can always sparge to get the pre boil volume up to around 2.25 gallons to...

I found an oatmeal stout recipe I wanted to try. It was an extract recipe for 5 gallons. Since I wanted to experiment with it, I asked Beersmith to convert it to "all grain", then scale it down to 2 gallons. It's telling me that my mash in should be 5.91 quarts and mash out with 3.31 quarts...

I simply use one of those aeration devices that attaches to your drill. Just sanitize, attach to drill and aerate for around 5 minutes. Be careful not to hit edges or bottom if using plastic carboys.

Will be doing a small batch (2 gallons) of all grain oatmeal stout this weekend. Receipe for the 2 gallons calls for: 3 lbs. 12.9 oz Pale malt (2 row) US 9.8 oz caramel/crystal malt 60L 4.9 oz roasted barley (300.0 SRM) Question is, I want to use Belgian Special-B. Which of the 4 grains...

Does the Special-B replace the Pale malt or the Caramel/crystal malt called for in the receipe

These were LFA parts (lead free). The only issue may be the ball valve, but I'm guessing that may not be all that a big a deal. Thanks for all the help.

3 stainless washers inside and 3 fender washers outside. No leaks after 15 minutes. Not as tight as I'd like, but no leaks. Will probably need to hold ball valve when opening and closing as to not disturb the fittings.

Actually got the stainless washers at Home Depot. It was the create-a-bolt kit. Here's a dumb question. Does the little gasket that you originally take off the cooler spigot go back in the same way it came out or do you turn around?

Definitely all the right parts. The brass pipe that goes through the cooler is LFA-786 (3/8 in MIP X 1-1/2 in FIB). The inside adaptor is LFA-298 (3/8 in ID X 3/8 in FIP). The outside connection is a 3/ inch threaded ball valve. I can only get the ball valve and inside adaptor to turn a...

Fittings are tight as I can get with 2 washers on front, and still lots of play.

So, I'm assuming that the connection will be quite lose. Like, even after its as tight as i can make it, I can still push it foward and back with lots of play. I can even turn the ball lock in circles. I just cant get it snug at all.

I went to lowes last night to get all the parts for homemade mash tun. Problem was parts list all called for Watt A---- items (I.e. watts a-786). Lowes had the parts (I Think), but they were labeled Watts LFA--- (i.e. watts LFA 786). Are the LFA the same as the A items? They sure look the same...

I will be transferring a pumpkin ale to a secondary fermentor this weekend. I want this to come out fairly clear, so I'd like to filter the beer during the transfer to the secondary. How do you guys and gals filter during the transfer? As usual....thanks in advance for the awesome advice...

I'm currently doing 5 gallon batches with partial extract kits, but will be switching to all grain. I'm building a 10 gallon mash tun this weekend, and have a question or two. Can I use this 10 gallon tun for a small batch as well (1 gallon -2.5 gallons)? I would like to experiment a bit...

When I transfered wort to the fermenter on saturday, it was at 4.5 gallons. I added spring water to get it up to 5 gallons. I'm hoping this is OK to do.