Search results

Either yeast would work well with either beer. Personally I like nottingham.

I dont necessarily regret it but I dont do it anymore. It started out ok and when I was in California I always had a good time judging in comps but it became a bit of bother for the few I have volunteered to judge at in the Omaha and surrounding areas. Just a different "culture" almost. In...

You will want to keep a lower OG in your starter to not stress the yeast out so I tend to aim for a starter gravity between 1.040-1.045. And for the starter you will want to do a 2L if possible as 1L wont have a sufficient cell count. If you are not equiped to do a bigger starter I would...

The overflow does also act as a vent for the tub. It is not altogether necessary as the vent pipes on your roof will do the job but it does help to accelerate the draining.

It should still clear fine on its own. If you are worried about it you could always throw some gelatin at it in the final week.

About 4 weeks if you keg or 5-6 weeks if you bottle. You could probably push it faster but you might lose some clearing and conditioning time.

Just leave it in the primary. I always do mine in just the primary and it comes out fine. Just use some whirlfloc or irish moss and you won't have to worry about clarity with this beer.

I'm not a plumber but my dad was and I learned a thing or two. The water should typically drain at about twice the rate of the fill depending on pipe diameter. I think around here your water lines are about 1/2" ID and the tub drain is usually around 1" ID or bigger. Granted I don't know what...

It depend of what fruit juice you use. Even the brand can make a difference. Mine mostly tend to run semi-sweet to dry.

Can you post the link? I couldn't find it.

I do this all the time. Usually just because I just get too lazy to hook up the plate chiller. Plus it does waste a lot of water. My pot has a valve on it so I just hook a hose to it and run the hot work into one of my HDPE ferm buckets as they can take the heat. Secure with lid and airlock and...

You could do a smash with about 5 pounds of the Munich, should give an og og 1.045. And a lot of different hops will compliment the Munich. I lean towards liberty, hallertau, tettnang, saaz or even the English hops like fuggle, ekg, Willamette will compliment well.

Do you have anything else on hand? What do you have to work with? You could certainly do a smash or I would lean towards 70% pale + 30% Munich myself. You could then use some centennial for bittering.

I've done the sorbate route but like yooper said. Just having the keg cold does the trick. If you use sorbate I would recommend cold crashing first then rack onto a tablespoon of sorbate that has been diluted in water. Then let it sit for a few days to a week then add the juice and carb.

Wow. I forgot this recipe had even been posted that long. Be sure to update us on the finished product.

Yes you can as long as you are force carbing. I have done it for a few different "shandy" styles.

I don't see why it wouldn't be a good beer. I tend to use Vienna in beers where it will shine through on its own and use 2row where I don't really care about the base grain being the highlight. But ultimately, if you like Vienna then do it. It's still a base grain after all.

Just thought I should throw in some pics. The rye made it quite hazy, I didn't use any whirlfloc for this like I normally would.

Beautiful family Dan.

Now that the grain buy is for the most part over. I was planning to place an order for hops and yeast with Brewcraft. Probably wont want to order until about Labor day But I thought I would give you guys the chance to get in on my order so you can get it cheap and share the shipping just like in...