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What exactly are you going to make your starter in haha? Mr. Malty says 10 packets of dry yeast into about 28L water should do the trick. You might be able to get away with doing it in a corny keg and pitching straight out of that.

Well this isnt necessarily the best answer but you could always try adding amylase enzyme to assist in conversion.

No problem, seems odd that you're only having a problem with the hefe. :confused: Best of luck!

What do you use to stir you mash? Something automated might be a must. I only brew on a 10 gallon system so stiring by hand works just fine for me. Check out this write up on Beersmith. It might help a little bit with understanding disatatic power and formulating your grain bill. Cheers!

I know exactly how you feel. The closest home brewing store to me is about 3 hours away. Im forced to do most of my ordering online :(

Hmm... Ill do some more reading haha.

If you were using a half malter/half torrified wheat combo that is part of your problem, torrified has no diastatic power and malted wheat has relatively low distatic power thus making for a pretty unfermentable wort/need for an extended mash.

So this a batch that you have actually brewed and were you using torrified wheat or malted wheat? Edit: +1 on the mash time. Did you sparge at all when you brewed this?

+1 on the bulk bags, those are very useful and extremely versatile. If you can afford to spend a few extra bucks I'd recommend throwing in some pilsner for those lighter beers (if you're into that kind of thing), or maybe two bags of pale/2 row. The Maris Otter is a great sub for Golden Promise...

First off, welcome! I typically leave my beer in the primary for roughly 3 weeks before bottling/kegging it. One benefit of the secondary is added clarity but I find, especially with a yeast strain that has high flocculation, that only using the primary fermenter for a three week period of...

+1. While its not ideal to have a big temp swing like that I would prefer to have it occur after most of the fermentation has already taken place. OP: This will limit the impact on the flavor of your beer. I doubt you will be able to taste much, if any, off flavor but if you do simply take...

I keep 50# sacks of pale, pilsner, munich, wheat and maris on hand. I need to start keeping a bag of caramel 60 or 40 around too :) For the hops I like have a few pounds of Saaz, Centennial, Fuggle, and a few other mismatched 1oz-2oz bags around. I usually keep a few pints of washed yeast...

I stepped over 5 corny kegs just to take a shower/use my bathroom. It was a tango with only one dancer.

Great choice. +1!

+1 on the Yeast/fermentation temp! Excluding sanitation my list goes as follows 2) Recipe 3) Mash temp / Technique 4) Water chemistry :mug:

So Ive been doing a fair share of HBT surfing the last couple weeks instead of brewing. Its been so hot and we were waiting on the new counter flow chiller, which worked out beautifully yesterday :rockin:. Brewed up a batch of IPA, a Bells Two Hearted clone, cleaned the labels off several...

Yea they are pretty much tasteless and have very little nutritional value. Don't rely on them for any sweetness.

OP, Ive tried making cookies, bread, pretzels, granola, veggie burgers, etc with the spent grain and it usually turns out pretty well. I typically dehydrated my spent grains and store them for later use. My favorites so far have been the bread and granola! :mug:

Check out these threads. They provides good information on the danger of hops to your pet: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/dangers-hops-your-pets-108935/ https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f14/danger-hops-dogs-108663/

You are absolutely fine. I ferment 2-3 batches at a time this way. IF you get suck back it will just be sanitized water, no harm in that. My theory goes if wild yeast can get into the bucket and not cause any problems then I dont see any reason that brewers yeast would have any adverse...