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I learn a lot from your posts @Bobby_M ! I'm glad you are so active/involved with this forum. I'm sure it helps quite a few others on here as well to have you as a resource.

I do eBIAB and do a single grind at credit card thickness gap on my mill. That gives a nice grind and some flour but not tons. I do some Wits that have up to 50 % wheat and dont get scorching. I see that you said you upgraded to a ULWD element. That has been the key to my eBIAB system upgrade...

I don't know much about controllers but that doesn't seem to make much sense. Even on my Brew Commander I can adjust power output during mash or boil.

Certainly each to his own but in regard to the brew bucket, I position my racking arm even with the top of the cone, which allows me to draw clear beer just above the trub. The 7 gal chronical lid fits the brew bucket which has a port for dry hopping blow off, etc. I've never had the need for...

The Brew Commander has a 6-8 ft wire to the thermo couple and my boil coil cord is as long or longer. Still, you're right a spraying hose could possibly reach a controller no matter the make. Not sure if any of them are actually waterproof.

The Ez boil sounds a bit more sophisticated from what I've read than my Brew Commander. The Brew Commander default is 5 sec cycles when pulsing but that parameter can be changed. I havent messed with it. I always use my timers in the BC, but I'm pretty sure you can just set a temp and power...

I use both the 7gal and the 3.5gal Ss Brewbucket. They are super easy to clean and maintain and the conical portion gathers the trub and the rotating racking arm allows you to draw very clear beer with excellent clarity. I can fit my 7 gal in the mini fridge, or I can fit the 3.5 gal and my 2.5...

If its a ULWD element, its likely okay, if not , I'm not sure I would risk it. Safer to just wrap the kettle in beach towels or old blankets.

Actually you can add heat to the bag, you just need the right heat source. I did that when i was using an induction burner and it worked fine on low wattage to maintain mash temps. I upgraded to a boil coil last year when i found out its ULWD element would not scorch or burn the bag.

I use the North Shore in line GFCI w/manual reset and it works great. Mine is a 240v 20amp for my 3750 Boil Coil. I got the model with the exposed wires and ordered the plugs i needed. They provided wiring diagrams and it just took me a couple minutes to put it in operation. It was a much...

I break mine down as its on my workbench in the garage and i use that for bottling as well. Mine is just single vessel set up though: ekettle, controller, pump, BIAB.

I single crush and my gap is set to credit card thickness. My crush looks good and I'm hitting my numbers in Brew Smith. I guess I could improve my efficiency by double crushing, but I'm not seeing the need at this time to chase numbers.

@Bobby_M and @doug293cz , here is the reply I got back from Blichmann support. I agree its probably a rarity for that failure, and even if it were to happen in my brewing steps I would likely notice it visually and could trip my reset on the inline gfci, which is right by the controller. "Yes...

Is your tap water chlorinated? If so, you might want to get some Campden tabs to neutralize or go to the store and get some spring water.

I have the Brew Commander and really enjoy using it. It's connected to the wall outlet through an inline GFCI with a manual reset/trip button. Are you saying that if I stopped my boil and shut off the BC power on/off rocker switch the SSR could still power the element? If so, I need to contact...

I use a 10 gal and it works great for 3.5-5 gal batches, though I don't do those "big beers". My normal batches are 5.5 - 6.3% ABV and that's plenty for me. I do BIAB full volume, so no sparge water needed, just simple with an ekettle. and contoller.

I go with the variety route by trying new styles or recipes about every third or fourth batch. I'll do smaller batches then 2.25-2.75 gal, as I can fit two of those fermenters at a time in the mini fridge.

+1, good points and observations. About the time I made system upgrades, I subscribed to Beersmith software and bought an Apera ph meter, as well as a supply of brewing salts. It really does make a difference.

Some ULWD elements can run with heat while mashing and no false bottom needed. When I found that the Blichmann boil coil could do that I switched to one last October and run the heat during the mash with no issues.

Several things for me as I wanted to try some competitions. First was going to the Ss Brew Bucket that is stainless and has a cone shaped bottom and racking arm. Result excellent clarity. Next I revamped my BIAB when the Brew Commander controller fell into my price range. At that point I got...