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True. I used to have mine out in my shop which is non-insulated metal building. Inside the shop, the temperature gets well over triple digits during the summer time (Atlanta). My mini-fridge used to run most of the day trying to keep up. So I moved it into my garage which is a much more...

No need to run it when it's not in use. As the OP mentioned, I use an STC1000 to control the temp in mine. When it's done fermenting, I shut it down until the next batch.

Thanks. Would be interested in your comparative notes if/when you brew the original recipe.

Has anyone substituted the Maris Otter for the 2 Row in this recipe? What were your thoughts??

If your goal is for higher abv, the increased grain bill is being negated by the increased mash temp your showing. Anything over 156 is going to produce less fermentable wort that attenuates less/finishes at a higher FG. It will create more body, but finish higher. Drop the mash temp back...

7643 +5 Boston Lager-Ale Inspired +5 Fresh Squeezed Inspired +5 Roasted Pecan Porter +5 Irish Red +5 Uptown Brown Ale +5 Simcoe IPA +5 Centennial Blonde Ale ----------------------------- 7678

Boy this thread went off the rails in a hurry... Your carboy is too small for the amount of wort that was added. You need some head-space to allow for the krausen to rise and fall. A general rule of thumb; For the amount of wort you want to ferment, you need a primary vessel with a capacity...

As others have stated, I use the original foam gasket to hold the new silicone gasket in the lid. It also doesn't stick to the lip of the opening like the silicone does so it makes it easier to uncrew the lid as well. Back before the silicone gaskets were available, I made my own foam gasket...

This makes no sense.

FYI - I have seen some have issues with the pvc version of the hop spider. Some have melted, others question whether having pvc exposed to heat is safe (fumes). Just wanted to post an alternative using a stainless sink drain flange in case you/anyone have similar concerns. :mug:

Let me be the first to say; Beautiful! And the beer ain't bad either... ;)

We know that's a question by the symbol at the end of the sentence. AND that it's yours since you're posting it. You don't need to tell us... LOL :mug:

I recently bought a PH meter so will be testing PH going forward to decide when to mix a new batch.

Interesting. Can't trust anything these days... ;) I use Primo RO water from WallyWorld for brewing (it's $0.37 gal here). But usually use distilled for starsan. I'll pay attention next time and see if i can detect any chlorine smell.

Which is why I didn't check it. The diagram is a little on the busy side... But sometimes it helps to draw things out to get it straight in your mind. Even if the drawing method is difficult for others to follow. ;) I also agree the on/off light seems useless. Even if you add a switch, given...

I didn't check your diagram but here's a proven diagram minus the lamps if you want a sanity check.

When using tap water, the starsan can turn cloudy fairly quickly which makes it a little more difficult to know when it begins to loose it's effectiveness and when to change it. I use distilled water every time I make a 5 gal batch of startsan. Like Is.Liz., I also use my starsan batches over...

Fair enough. That takes the cost factor off the table. You must not be as hard headed as me. I was NOT going to let some tubing beat me! ;)

You could bite the bullet and push on hard fittings then you won't have to give it a second thought. Cheaper too. It's really not that bad once you get the hang of it. Though the first one is a PITA.

Easy peasy...