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I've bought one that was shipped from Hong Kong, and one that was shipped from the U.S. Both work great, and seem identical. One thing to be careful of if you buy the Hong Kong one, they often sell 220V and 110V versions, so make sure they ship the correct voltage for your country.

In addition to using a hydrometer as others have stated, I am curious as to why you don't want to raise the temperature. White Labs states the optimum temp for WLP300 as 68-72F. And since its been going for 12 days already, you could even probably go above that and not worry too much about off...

Don't do this. If you want to add champagne yeast to dry it out, you have to do it in primary/secondary. NOT in the bottles. That would almost certainly result in bottle bombs.

Yeah, if the suit does end up having any merit here's how it will shake out: Any consumer who saved a receipt for any of the affected AB-Inbev products they bought gets a coupon in the mail for 4 cents off their next case of beer. The lawyers involved each get new private jets.

Yeah, just counting the cells might do it. I feel like introducing a toxic element helps us determine if the cells are as strong as with traditional aeration is another useful data point. It seems to me that this test should definitely be done before the full batch taste tests. If you already...

Could this be done in a more objective manner? Something like: make 2 yeast starters, one only with OO, the other on a stir bar. Then do a cell count of both starters. Dump in a measured amount of something toxic to yeast, I'm thinking vodka. Do another cell count. Theoretically, if the OO does...

Exactly why we use sanitizer in the airlock instead of plain water. It will be fine.

35 pounds of 2-row has a certain theoretical yield that is the most sugar you can possibly get out of it. For whatever reason, Beersmith is estimating that you will get the same percentage of that theoretical max yield, regardless of the sparge volume. So when you boil down to the same volume...

Actually, using 100,000,000,000 cells in a vial / 19000 mL in a 5 gallon batch = 5,263,157 cells per mL, /.75 million cells per mL per degree plato needed for an ale =7 degrees plato or about 1.028 is all a vial or smackpack is good for without a starter.

The Meat Baby

This doesn't sound right to me. Why would this be the case? Do you mean the partial pressure of CO2 in the keg is different than the total pressure set at the regulator? No, don't do this. The total pressure in regards to balancing line length will 25psi.

You made an error in measuring your volumes somewhere. Your mash + sparge water was 10.08 gallons and your ending volume is 10 gallons. Unless by "squeezed the grains" you mean "drove over the bag with a tank" this is not possible. Also, why is your equipment loss set to 1.15 gallons? There is...

And I shouldn't have probably said the fermentation stalled, in my last post. Depending on a variety of factors, 1.020 could be a perfect place for the beer to finish.

The fermentation probably stalled because the yeast ran out of fermentables, not because of a problem with the yeast themselves. Just adding priming sugar will be fine. Do you mean adding water to make up the volume? Then you will be diluting your beer. The only way you could do this...

Lots of good advice about chilling. Regarding the yeast rehydration, you do not want to let it sit too long after rehydrating. I think most yeast manufacturers say 30 or 45 minutes. If you let it sit longer it starts to eat some of its nutrient reserves. Sitting for an hour won't ruin your beer...

Yeah, sorry, didn't explain good. It was at 70F for I think 4 days. Then into the fridge to cold crash and decant. OK, that's pretty much what I was wondering, if it would flocculate more with more time in the fridge. It's a 2.5 gallon PET container from a super old beer making kit my mom...

So this is my first yeast starter, and I'm not so sure about the final product. This is after almost 24 hours in the fridge, and it looks to me like there's a thin band of yeast at the bottom, but a lot of yeast might still be in suspension.

Also, know that the STC-1000 can handle a max of 10 amps. So for a 1500W or 2000W element, you would have to use a relay of some sort.

Another thing you can do is call bars and restaurants in your area to see if they recycle bottles. We keep ours in bins in back and might have a few hundred before they get picked up for recycling

Well the max liquid temp is 130F,