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the test strips are also not reading. That's why I was a bit confused. And its only in bottled spring water. I did try it in the mash later and still got nothing. I ran it in the sink faucet and got readings. Just baffling.

I'm getting bad readings all around and when I tried to test the water seperately it wouldn't budge the strip or meter. I added Gypsum and nothing. CaCl and nothing. Just found it odd that when spring water is introduced I can't get a reading. From the tap I can.

Like the title says. I use bottled water from Safeway. It is their brand spring water. It will not ever read a PH. Ive tried strips and a digital meter. Tried those both on my faucet and I get a PH reading just fine. I don't understand why the spring water has no PH. Can anyone shed light...

Bakeries are an even better source. May have an older one laying around.

Check out a stainless mixer table. This link has some expensive ones, but you can find them cheaper. https://www.usaequipmentdirect.com/mixer-table.html

Can any share any changes to the baselineBeersmith Profile for the 20G? I've seen variances and going to adjust, but my grain absorption was more than calculated so my pre boil volume was about a half gallon too low I also need to adjust loss to fermenter to about .25 gallons on the CF10 vs...

I don't think it's a half gallon. 1/4 maybe below the arm and that is with a sight glass. If its a big miss, adjust your losses in your profile and accomodate with a couple more dollars in grain to batch size.

I use their racking arm on my CF5, my (now sold) Flex Plus and will on my new CF10. I like that I can control what is going into the keg and get every bit of good beer. If it starts coming out cloudy as you twist the arm, stop. I've never measured a variance with vs without it, but I like...

Hey guys, I'm selling my GF since I upgraded to a new system. I would like local pick-up (Edgewater, MD is just south of Annapolis). I have about 10 brews on it. Great condition and no issues. I can PM pictures via PM later. I'll try to add here when I am home. Details: 110v Includes...

I finally got it to twist. 1/16” of an inch max. Would feel better if it was a better lock but should hold.

Here’s another question. The main power plug that goes into the he back of the controller: it comes out very easy. Some mentioned it is a twist lock but it clearly is not. It shifts no more than a 1/16” and still will unplug from that position. What have you guys done to keep it from unplugging...

EDIT: Scratch that.. I'm an idiot haha..

You mean you weren't more excited about the Hop Boat? lol... Pump looks solid. I'll probably grab 1 when available.

Joining the crew. 20G Solo inbound, with a CF10 and second TC100. Game on :)

All in. Epic giveaway guys.

Absolutely in. Great giveaway

Same. Would love to snag one of these.

I've never had a problem plugging in the pump brick and a 2 pin plug for the heat pad. They are very close, but never seem to be an issue.

Interested. please PM the code.

If you use the controller and have the heat and cool side both plugged in, the unit will control which side is activated based on temp. The Spike control unit engages when the temp varies by 1 degree. So if you set at 50 degrees and you have a glycol chiller or cooler with ice water hooked up...