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Be sure to post up the results! Ive never used non - traditional hops in my saisons so i look forward to hearing how it comes out.

This is the 4th iteration of this recipe. I had used British yeast on the first two (and too much molasses); West York then scottish. the Scottish was ok; low ester and not too sweet. But not great with 30% corn imho. I went with S-23 because i knew it would give me the effect i wanted; no...

I do the print and glue stick thing too. I play with labels in excel: I've wanted to try painting the printed sheet with clear coat first, to get some water resistance out of it, but have never got around to trying it.

Wow that's a Manhattan on steroids.

"Bourbon whiskey" is defined by 27 CFR 5.22 off the US Code. "Bourbon" means it must be made with at least 51% corn. The Kentucky thing is a common misconception.

Smoother and the richer/sweeter the better, imho. I'm a big fan of Tennessee bite but not what I'd put in beer.

Depends on the yeast. With S-23 and 30% corn it has plenty of body.

I posted a recipe for my Colonial Porter in the recipe section: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=8108042#post8108042

SOME HISTORY I had done a fair bit of digging into historic brewing and distilling in western Pennsylvania, at Pitt's Hillman library and at the Carnegie library. I've learned as lit and still have a lot to learn (I'm not done searching ance reading). In colonial times, through to the...

Different yeast strains yield differing amounts of top yeast. But even the best I'd think wouldn't give you enough for 20 gallons ime.

There's a whole bunch of yeast in all of them tbh. You can use it all but want to avoid anything that might impart unwanted flavor to your new beer. typically leave the trub and usually leave the beer. Happy beer and dark beer media can really mess with your new beer.

That's too much like math. Unfun. IBU @ time is simpler: Columbus - 30 IBUs@60 min

every farm had a dump. There was no municipal refuse service. They also didn't have much trash back then anyway. But definitely ost up some pics.

Another way is to use a super high gravity yeast and keep dosing the fermenter with more and more juice until the yeast gives up. (You need to follow SG reading to do it right )

It'd be very helpful if you could better describe the off flavor, to help pinpoint the issue. Over pirching supposedly leads to yeasty, bready flavor. I've never run into it and I've pitched into cakes a handful of times. I'm currently filling 14 gallon brewbuckets with successive 4 gallon...

Crystal malts mentioned will add some body but also change the flavor considerably. You can add dextrinous malt like carapils, carafoam, flaked barley, oats, or even layer them. 3-10% is just fine. Maltodex was mentioned as well. Mash higher like your said. You can also use lower...

It must be OG otherwise it loses its meaning and usefulness. Let's take your imaginary favorite pale ale...1.050 and 30 IBUs. BU:GU=0.6 It's your favorite because you like that balance of malt to hop flavor and aroma. i.e. you like pale ale at BU:GU of 0.6 If you want brew an imperial...

It depends on overhead more than beer ingredients. But less than $1/pint for most beers. You calculated 5 cents an ounce but you really need to include rent, House maintenance, Insurance, All utilities, Etc.

Open fermenter! https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7256769&postcount=28

agree with the sentiment that it'll be harder to appreciate the differences in the dry hop effect in a 100 ibu beer, and 100 is unnecessary in a 4.5% beer ingeneral. I'd recommend doing some reading on BU:GU ratio by Ray Daniels. a good old way to test dry hops is to pickup a 6 pack of bud...