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Curious to see how this ends. I'm currently brewing a saison and M47. Getting a bit worried...

I use all types of beer yeast for my ciders (from store bought juice). All turn out dry, esp the saison. My take on things is that it is quite easy to make a dry cider and all beer yeasts work. I'm not using nutrients and no sugar, except at bottling for carbonation.

Me too

I just use store bought apple juice (vitamin C as preservative) and generally the trub from a batch of beer. It comes out at around 6% which to me is a nice percentage for cider. I only use sugar for carbing.

Yep, drink faster ;) Seriously, you can open, pour (carefully) close real tight and put back in the fridge and drink the next day. But smaller bottles is a much better plan

I got a real simple set up that works for batches up to 9-10 litre (with a bit of adjustment of recipes). Most batches are around 6-7 litres though, so close to 2 gallon. A 10 litre pot that I start off with 7.5 ltr water. Bring to above mash temp (generally 70 - 74 oC, depending on room temp)...

Keep it simple. Definitely initially. I would directly go all grain BIAB. You don't need much in the form of equipment. Buy a kit with the grain measured and milled, yeast and hop. Those kits work. Later on you can chop & change but for a 1st brew don't worry about all those choices. Follow the...

Tastes very dry? The same as the juice before you started fermenting, or drier, less sweet? Can you do a SG reading? Almost sounds like fermentation has already finished?

I put (store bought, vitamin C preserved) apple juice on every type of yeast (after 1 or more beer batches) and all seem to do well. Sofar that is: T58 / M29 / M47 / M 31 /S 33 and Voss kveik

I had (have) weevils in my malted wheat. It's not easy to get here, so I packed in ziplock bags and moved them to the freezer. I'm still using the malt, I just increase the weight a bit from my recipe and it makes quite a nice weevilly wheat beer :). I washed out the container at the end of the...

My bad. I'm not a kegger, so automatically assumed bottle conditioning, without reading through the post properly. But definitely keep an eye on the bottles, just in case fermentation is not totally finished. Years ago, I had my wine rack in the living room. It was a hot summer and luckily I...

I would be very careful of wine bottles. Champagne bottles & sparkling wine bottles yes, "standard" wine bottles no. Since you bottled already: check the cork daily. They may start popping out. Or your bottles may break due to pressure build up (carbonation). Keep them in a closed box, just in...

Let it sit and measure FG again in a couple of days to see if it is stable or still moving

Are you sure you mean bitter? Not acidic? Try mixing a bit of pure apple juice in with your cider. See if that helps. Or a teaspoon sugar in the glass

I haven't noticed any. My last 4-5 batches have been saisons and been fermenting and conditioning at around 27-28 oC (80-82 oF) (I guess).

Give it time! A week is very short for conditioning. Put them to the back of the fridge and forget about them. Or set a weekly reminder on yr phone and try 1 bottle per week. For next time, just add water to get to your desired OG

I got 3 batches of Saison with M29 with different hops (single malt) Perle/Saaz Cascade East Kent Goldings (almost ready for bottling). Sofar, Perle/Saaz is my favourite ;)

Not me! We consider 35 oC a cold day in summer...

M31 works fine in the heat with no or limited temp control. M47 is about ready to bottle, will report back. M29 is a winner, but not real hot here yet. I did something similar to you: looked at my favourite beer style, then went looking for yeast that work at higher temperatures. Not much...

Just thinking: Find a jerrycan that fits inside. Lid on and drill a hole somewhere for airlock or possibly better, an overflow tube. I use "normal" cooler boxes for mash and fermentation and search for a yeast that will work at the expected temp in the cooler (lower than day time max, higher...