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The BJCP style guide for American Brown Ale (Category 10C) calls for IBUs in the range of 20-40. The kit seems to fall within the recommend alcohol and color ranges for the style, but it's definitely out of whack on the IBU front. The BJCP style guide does mention that some ABAs can be...

Congratulations! As a Seattle resident, I look forward to checking Ghostfish out once you get up and running. Let me know if you need some tasters to try recipes out on. :-)

Ideally you'd like to separate everything and take the bottle wand apart for cleaning. Try running some hot water over the point where the tubing connects to the other pieces and see if that loosens it up enough. Use a dry towel to make sure you can get a good grip.

+1. AAA does fills while you wait (~5 minutes if they're quiet) and I seem to recall the prices being pretty reasonable.

If it's still bubbling, just walk away and leave it be. Once you stop seeing visible signs of fermentation, give it a few more days and then check your gravity over the course of a few days to see if it's stabilized. I'd then give it a bit more time for the yeast to clean up after themselves...

There's a whole section on HomeBrewTalk dedicate to that topic: Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Gluten Free Brewing In short, yes it's definitely possible. I'm not really sure about Heineken being gluten free, but there are a range of options for buying (or making) gluten free...

I dunno, that sounds like a pretty nice IPA just the way you describe it. :-) I don't know your hop tolerance, but if you're aiming for an IPA it doesn't seem like IBUs in the mid-60's should be much to worry about. Time will take some of the harshness off the hop flavor as well, so if...

Yeah, if there was still sign of active fermentation when you bottled, it was definitely too early to bottle. You really want primary to be complete (as indicated by hydrometer readings) and then give the yeast some time to clean up after themselves before you bottle.

Shake/stir the crap out of it. You want a nice head to form. Don't worry about over-aerating, since that's virtually impossible.

The higher the FG the sweeter the beer will be, but if fermentation is done (or stuck) then simply letting it sit longer won't do anything about that. If fermentation is still happening, all you need to do is give it more time. It sounds like your fermentation temp was about right for...

To be clear, you mean there was no visible sign of fermentation but it was still fermenting, right?

Are you making sure to not empty the bottles all the way when you pour the beers (and not shaking/jostling the bottles shortly before serving)? The gut rot sounds like you may be getting some of the yeast/sediment that should have settled into the bottom of the bottles mixed into what you're...

Airlock activity and amount of krausen (the head) aren't really great indicators of how your fermentation is progressing or if it's done. What was your OG for this batch? What's the current gravity and what's the target FG? For your i2pa, did your gravity stabilize at 1.025 or did you...

A small boil over won't impact anything, except giving you a sticky stove top. Hard to diagnose the "funk" and milky substance without a bit more detail/pictures. Assuming the rest of your sanitation process was good, I doubt not having the lid fully sealed for a few hours would lead to any...

Typically, you should take a gravity reading immediately before you pitch your yeast (after the wort has been chilled to pitching temperature) to get your OG (original gravity). After you've pitched the yeast, it's best to just leave the beer alone for about a week before checking the gravity...

Two vials is probably about right. If you haven't already checked out the yeast pitching calculator on mrmalty.com, it may be worth a look. How did you oxygenate/aerate your wort?

Even better. Use the 2 gal fermenter to make her some cider, meaning you need another (bigger) fermenter for your beers. :)

Leave the sediment.

Leave the sediment. One objective of secondary is to get the beer off the trub (sediment) for extended aging, dry hopping, etc.

Oh and make sure you scale your hops and yeast accordingly as well.