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How about y'all stay on topic for the OP. 34/70 isn't a true lager strain and warm fermented lager is not the same as cold fermented. OP do a lager properly first then change your practice if you want to see the difference. Tape the temp probe to outside of fermenter and insulate with foam or...

5 years late and wrong topic. Apart from that good work!

Huh. First time I've had to look for an ignore button on this forum. Found it.

Brew in a Bag is a great way to get into all grain (and many people stay at BIAB). Calculations are slightly easier than sparging. Do you know anyone who brews? Maybe watch them on a brewday. Fully read How to Brew is the other option. I assume Joy of Homebrewing is dated (I haven't read it).

Whatever the new popular beer style is someone will say "I don't get it". Not long ago people were saying the same thing about West Coast IPAs. If you don't like a beer style don't make it, don't drink it, don't whinge about it. I don't like Saisons, sours, or high gravity beers. My solution...

I love keg hopping but find it takes a good 3 weeks before they have a good effect. I'm no scientist but my guess is the cold temperature of the beer.

I got half way through list then got bored. Most of the phrases I have seen used on HBT so not sure why the list is being singled out. My unjustified pet peeve is "crushable" for session beers. Seen that numerous times on this board. Every hobby has slang or similar. When friends and I talk...

Are you thinking of doing the commercial brewing yourself or getting a professional in to do it? If you've just started brewing then you will be well out of your depth. I like the three listed by Papz - IPA, Dark, Light. The most important thing is quality. If you've got 20 mediocre beers on...

That is a big batch to start with. 40 litres of beer is a lot to drink if things don't quite go right. You've already bought the grains but would you consider doing a smaller batch since it's your first all grain brew? Any reason why you're not splashing out on an immersion chiller or similar?

A yeast calculator will tell you one pack is not enough (or optimal) for a 5 gallon batch unless it is fresh and low gravity. Im not surprised that the wyeast guy is saying he uses 3 packs. Some of the better lager brewers are using 5 packs for lagers in 5 gallons and then repitching slurry...

I do similar but results in more time. I take 1-2 litres of the wort from the mash tun while draining then boil it on stovetop for a few minutes, chill then pitch in that. That way the vitality starter is going before the main boil is finished so get an extra hour or so.

This is the beginners forum. You could have finished after your first paragraph. No need to primary for a month. Once beer is at final gravity and has no off flavours, package it.

Oxidation is the enemy of all beers but hoppy beers seem to be the most affected. Try to reduce oxidation where possible.

Most beers don't need aging if well brewed. Take gravity readings, when stable, bottle, carbonate, and drink when ready. A pale ale isnt going to get better with time unless it had some flaws.

Holy crap that looks like a disgusting beer. No idea why a beginner would start with a complicated recipe. Pick a simple pale ale or bitter and get things right first.

In the brew science forum there is a sticky for very basic water adjustments with RO. If you do what's in the sticky you won't go far wrong. In terms of efficiency look at crush and stirring grains at mash in. Also make sure you are mashing at right temp (which sounds like you are working towards)

Yeah you messed that up. Were you following some sort of guide? I assume it said that you should lift the grain bag from wort at end of mashing. Since you said bags, even though you said it is all grain, were you doing extract with specialty malt steeping?

I'm restraining myself from a rant here but I have seen two "LODO doesn't make a difference" posters on this forum state in the last few days that one has been brewing all grain less than a year, and one doesn't do pH adjustments. I would suggest that posters like that are not in a position to...

Get another packet of dry yeast and get it in there as soon as possible. I think yeast can't survive beyond 140f.

That is a good point. However, the sulfites are removed via oxygenating the wort when pitching. I'm not clued up enough on this but I think they get converted to sulfate compounds. If your family is allergic to sulphates then you have an issue because sulphates are produced during fermentation...