Search results

Brew what the f you want. By using the word "should" you are saying that the best way to brew is simply which is a blanket statement that is not true.

4% for a full volume BIAB sounds ok too me. The calculators are only estimates so I recommend getting a _good_ pH meter and checking on brew day. I have found the calculators to be all over the show compared to actual readings. Other people on this forum seem to have more success than me with calcs.

This is purely from my experience but sulfite strips are invaluable for this particular question. Oxygen meters are great but don't tell you if you have residual sulfites. I am still dropping my ppm down every brew because I still have residual sulfites post boil and chilling. This is based on...

I feel the same way about people saying crushable in regards to session beers. We all have little things that annoy us.

I have not had success with 007. A brewing friend and I brewed the same beer with 007 and the hops were muted compared to previous brews with 001 and US05. I know other people have had success with it but we didn't. 001 and 090 are my current favourites for APA.

Assuming an OG of 1.07 and 20 litres of wort then Mr Malty says you would need 3.2 packs of yeast assuming that the yeast is four weeks old. You will be pitching 1/3rd of the amount of yeast that Mr Malty recommends. Make of that what you will.

It's got electrolytes.

Others may chime in but I don't think IPAs should be bottled. Definitely oxidation in that picture. Not sure why it didn't carbonate. When I used to bottle I put the boiled priming sugar in the bottom of the bottling bucket and racked directly onto that and didn't have issues with carbonation.

For sure. I keg hop.

I'm brewing this for the first time in a few weeks. My recipe for my system called for a total of 150 grams of Amarillo (5.3 Oz) but they only had a pack of 200 grams so gave it to me for the same price as 150. Can anyone recommend where to put the additional 1.8 Oz, if at all? I'm thinking...

Yep, I agree most people will be kegging already. However, if you are starting from a certain point then that cost needs to be allowed for. I think it is better to be upfront about the costs of going to LODO. Some of the comments on the other forum make it seem like it's a simple matter of...

Yeah you can do it cheapish but depends where you are starting from. I came from single pot infusion BIAB. I am now on dual pot recirculating direct fired mash. So for me the extra costs were: Going from copper chiller to stainless chiller. This was before people started using brewtan b Pump...

Isn't that healthy krausen? Looks good to me.

Why do you need convincing? I assume you have all the gear already. For the price of hops and some DME give it a go and the worst that can happen is you won't like the beer.

65 degrees mash probably isn't going that low with 05. Is your reading reliable?

IMHO no as well. You have most of the available IBU from the hops at 60 minutes. Old school homebrew thoughts were that you needed to boil pilsner malt longer to avoid DMS.

Dump it and give the grain to the birds.

Holy crap. Haha that is a crazy amount of CaCl2. In my early days of brewing I had some smaller mishaps (wrong hops) while drinking and brewing. Decided not to drink and brew after that. At least I can just blame myself when I make mistakes now rather than the beer.

Yep. I have a NEIPA that is a few months old and barely diminishing in flavour and aroma. If you follow some of the threads around here there is plenty of "My NEIPA tasted great to start with and is now brown and flavourless".

Post boil oxygenation is for the yeast. Post fermentation oxygenation causes staling and oxidation. They are two different functions. You would be surprised how small an amount of oxygen stales beer post fermentation.