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So, im making a DFH 60 minute IPA clone (or trying anyway), using about 13.3 lbs of 2-row and another 1/2 pound of amber. I pitched 2 vials of WLP001. Fermentation started before 12 hours, which is good, but a full week later its still bubbling away, about a bubble every 6 seconds, using a...

embarrassed i missed that one, but you're definitely right. looking good to me. I second the additional SSRs so you can switch both legs of th 240, and really think a selector switch between the pid and SSR is good choice, just so you never accidentally fire both up at the same time and pop your...

wanna know my thoughts? yes? ok... for the illuminated switches, must are NOT 120V, especially if they're LED. check the datasheet. read this thread for ideas on how to get the voltages right and not blow anything up. now, looking at the drawing, that is set up to get 2 seperate 240V lines fed...

Bjorn pointed this out, but it may have gotten lost... sice we're keeping the circuit simple, we need it. most commonly, resistors are 1/4 watt, meaning they can dissipate .25 watts of current without blowing up. in this case we're dealing with about 2.5 watts: power (watts) = current x volts...

I've thought about the same thing. I have a 3 wire dryer outlet, and I'd like to install a 4 wire fro that reason, but its expensive. what I would do is use 2 plugs. get your dryer outlet for the element, and run a regular 110v cord to a normal outlet for your PIDs and pumps. easy, cheap. as for...

look at some of the posts in this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/more-illuminated-switch-questions-183548/ bjorn had the right idea, and i found a schematic trying to illustrate it.

google images is my friend.... check this out: Dont worry about R1 and C1 in those pictures, they're a little over kill. just keep your resistor (R2 in these pictures) high enough. the 3.6 kOhm that Bjorn suggested is probably perfect. the idea is that when current goes one way, it passs...

I like Bjornbrewer's suggestion. I drew up a small schematic to make it clear, but have no idea how to post an image (probably not on good enough standing anyway). wither way, try to imagine the diode and led wired in a loop, with the triangles pointed clockwise (so if the led wer on the left...

if you're referring to the link in my last post, no only one pump. the heating element is inside that large piece of copper pipe, along with the hex coil and water. Theres no need to move any heating water, but some people might suggest a small stirrer to agitate the hot water (though I don't...

Found a link that describes what i was talking about earlier, here. I like the idea that its completely separate, and fairly compact. If I was building a HERMS, this is the way I would probably go.

So, it's hard to type on a phone. Rubbing = tubing.

I saw an article or post a while back where the brewer had made his HEX inside a 5 or 6 inch piece of pipe, with the rubbing inside, wrapped around an electric element, with water in that. Wish I could find the link, but really stays in line with the modular idea, and takes up much less space...

You didn't mention the power of your heating element, how many amps are you planning on needing? the computer type outlets are pretty easy to get a hold of, but you have to keep the power consumption in mind. check these out... they're on mouser.com and can get you what you're looking for: up to...

My experience (meaning im about 85% certain) has been that dryers don't come with the cords at all, just the screw posts for the electrical connection inside the unit. you need to get a cord thats appropriate for your outlet and wire it to the dryer during installation.

if the dryer is using 240V only, which it should be, then the outlets really aren't any less safe than the 4 wire, assuming the ground wire actually is ground. you only need the 4th (neutral) if you want to safely use either of the hot legs for 120V. If you want the 4 wire, the most expensive...

those lights are fine, for 120V. but if you are dropping the neutral (because of the 3 prong outlet) then you have nothing to hook them up to. I didn't look real hard, but didn't see 240V LEDs on the site, but a little math says a 10Kohm (2 watt, 1/4w won't handle the heat dissipation) resister...

Looks fairly straight forward. I know its the first draft, but things I might look out for: based on the drawing, your LEDs are getting 120V. unless they have inline resistors, they'll blow. I would wonder where you're getting your power. if its 4 wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground) you're good, but...

here's their kits for homebrew... http://www.learntobrew.com/store/category/fdvc/-_HB_Tower.html

not sure what the other prices are, but I've been looking at learntobrew.com at their kits. upgrade a 2 tower kit to perlicks, comes with kegs, tank regulator.... everything you need, under $350. looks not bad to me. As for chest freezers, i want to do the same thing, but alot of the ones I've...

to be more specific, they've been partials (just some grain steeping before adding extracts) but its time to move up. Sunday's full, in DC playing kickball, but if you're willing to have a visitor to watch and learn, next time, I can definitely be put to work! you in silver spring as well?