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Looks like a peltier cooler, which work but are not the most powerful thing. It shouldn't be too bad at holding fermentation temps (e.g. around 5C below ambient), but I think that cold crashing to near 0 is ambitious and only going to potentially work on the smallest size (the bucket pic, not...

From that article: "They are both capable of being the primary base malt in beer, but that’s about where the similarities end." "Munich malt has a lower enzyme concentration and cannot be relied on to convert starch from enzyme-deficient adjuncts and special malts." [emphasis mine] Munich...

157 is pretty high. Playing around with your recipe, scaled to my system and to your 1.048 OG shows FG around 1.013 mashed at 149 and 1.016 at 157.

Munich and Vienna are both considered base malts. Munich doesn't have a lot of extra diastatic power to convert more than just itself, but you should be able to do a 100% Munich beer without issue... Of course that's assuming this wasn't dark Munich. @giftedeye2 What was the mash schedule...

3.3 Cu Ft. I got this one specifically because it had no freezer to deal with. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-3-3-cu-ft-mini-fridge-black/6195311.p?skuId=6195311

That was my thought too. That level of crystal looks more like an APA than an IPA to me.

Mini fridges vary a lot. The one I'm using has a 15" usable width but only 21" height because of the compressor hump, and just shy of 14" of usable depth even with a modified door. With a collar (in the works) I'll be able to put fermenters in front of the hump to use 28" of height and have at...

Not quite 72 hours in, but looking great and smelling just as good! I really love the aromas 1469 puts off.

Why not just skip the Lactobacillus altogether and add lactic acid directly to the wort to get it down to the pH you want? Of course, people will call sacrilege for not following the process, but a lot of people say the same about doing a kettle sour vs traditional. I say, whatever gets you to...

I'm not OP, but the trim looks like crown molding. Had to do a double take on question 3... You went from "what foam" to "any issues with foaming" and I'm thinking I didn't see any spray foam, just insulation boards. 🤔

I grab samples all the time from the spigot, for my beers the trub isn't anywhere near high enough to be an issue... Your results may vary depending on style (I don't brew many dry hopped beers).

Yeast starters are great for what they do (build up a larger volume of yeast) but in order to do that, we don't typically treat them the same as we would a beer that was destined to be consumed. They're not the same gravity (usually lower, 1.035-1.040) They're not the same recipe (usually just...

Then it's even easier, just shave down the bottom tab.

The down side, you'll oxidize that beer, and even quicker at higher temps. Sure, it's not much and it won't be out that long, but water is the easier option anyway, so I wouldn't risk it.

Yeah, I had a board scraping the top on one as well, and also had a little leaking... I haven't retested extensively yet, but after getting the board to sit a little better I had no leaking when I left it floating in a bucket of water for 2 hours.

Lallemand says 0.1g/l, so with around 10 liters, 1.1 gram (1/10 of the pack) is just about right. https://www.lallemandbrewing.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/LAL-bestpractices-Bottle_conditioning_-_printbleed.pdf

Doesn't the top of the petling sit in the groove between the threads and that outer ring? I think an o-ring to sit in that space would be a better bet.

I'll strongly second what @RPh_Guy says. Once there is mold, even if you can't see it any longer, it may have left behind something called mycotoxins, and you REALLY don't want to be consuming that. Cut your losses and dump this one!

We used the Siebel kit in the BJCP class I took. There were a couple I found a little hard to detect, but that may just be my palate. Overall, I thought it was a good exercise.

Yup, a brew belt style heater should be just fine on stainless.