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I've been holed up in the wilderness for months unable to brew. I planned to revive some Hansens Ale Yeast on a stir-plate with a can of Omega Yeast's Propper Starter. As I poured the wort I noticed the freshness date on the bottom of the can was 09/19/2019. How much difference is this likely...

I've finished as low as 1.005 and well over 90% attenuation. It is my house yeast for now. Sadly, I am unable to brew right now and my vials are getting old.

I've just adapted to cam-locks. All the clamping and unclamping, combined with my mess-making skill-set, was just a recipe for disaster.

When I tracked mine, it appeared several days passed between the time they created the shipping label and the time it actually went to the shipper. Today, they followed up and asked if it solved the problem for me. I thought that was a nice touch.

Pressure seeks equilibrium. Pressure (and beer) will move in the direction of the lower pressure. You want lower pressure in the keg. Lifting the keg PRV will lower pressure in the keg and allow the beer to flow.

That worked perfectly, thank you. I took apart a three piece airlock and jammed one end of a tube into that. I pushed the barb on the end of a soda carb cap into the other end, and connected my gas line to that. The result was just barely long enough to reach without having to take things...

The fancy lid is on order. Spike wants me to pressurize it NOW as part of troubleshooting the lack of bubbles in my airlock during fermentation. Earlier discussion in this thread leads me to suspect the gasket on the clear lid. Supposedly, the base model flex can be pressurized up to 2 psi...

How do I pressurize the Flex, not the Flex+? It is currently in use as a fermenter.

But hop age is a non-issue with CO2 extract, right? Mine is at least a few years old, and I've detected no difference.

Thanks. I transferred the first batch to a keg for spunding, and it came out pretty good, so I wasn't too worried about it. I am just glad to know where the leak is likely to be. I've already reached out to Spike.

I am on my second batch using the base model flex with a glass cap. I used a 3-piece airlock on the first and an S on the second. I never saw a bubble in the first and so far have not seen one on the second, either. Looks like I need the newer gasket as well. There is no real risk to my beer...

I've been using a syringe of the horribly named Hopjizz CTZ-based CO2 extract. I put the syringe in very hot water for a very long time before adding it to the boil. I've never noticed anything stuck to the side during cleanup. Not sure about my flavor vocab here, but I'd describe the...

What do all of you see as the max capacity of this setup? Any problem getting six gallons to the keg(s)? I want to fill a pair of three gallon kegs and get to about 5.5%. Will 65% efficiency get me there? Too brain-dead with this cold to do any math this morning.

I buy almost exclusively 4-16s, but I am too old to remember how hipsters are supposed to act.

I drink mostly IIPAs, and they tend to come in the 4 x 16 format.

All I ask is that my newly ordered camlock fits.

Camlock is exactly my plan. Thanks for the tip on the tape. So these are not quite NPT threads?

I assumed we were using only unpasteurized juice. Anxo Cidery in DC makes a fair portion of their cider this way with Gold Rush apples. I used their process (50F for 30 days) and their juice and got the same very dry result. It aged nicely as well.

Just make sure to use the unscented OxyClean.

Do you want the simplest method? Drop the temp to 50F and wait for 30 days. That's it. No yeast, no nothing. Your cider will ferment itself. It will ferment a lot faster at 70F, but it won't taste very good.