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I wouldn't put either of them in my beer. Take a look here. 1/2" copper plumbing pipe/tube cut it into 1/2" lengths would be my choice if I thought I needed to add copper to the boiler or fermenter.

US pennies contain zinc. You might want to check the toxicity of zinc, a major component of post-1982 US cents. Short lengths of copper pipe or small copper fittings would be a safe addition.

I cool the wort to around 20*C (or less for lager/bottom fermenting yeast) remove the immersion wort chiller, and stir thoroughly to get a fast anti-clockwise rotation going. It is amazing how much solid material settles out in 30-60 minutes. I then start to drain the wort into my fermenter...

Welcome emanz1. The BM's are so shiny and purdy it's ALMOST a shame to use them - NOT! You'll have great service from your BM. I have the Thermocollar which helps to promote a slightly more rapid boil. But I wonder whether a thicker material (which can withstand 100*C) might be more...

Since your boiling point is ~95*C, try setting it at 97*C. I'm at 200ft and I set mine to 102*C. The timer works perfectly even though the "boil" reads 99 or 100*C. A gentle long boil is preferred for many European beers, especially lagers. Despite being a less violent boil than I have...

24522 + 12 = 24534 :mug:

Batfink, Why don't you consider a double mash? That's what I'll do when I want a high gravity beer using a single sacch' Rest. The only problem I can see is if you need a multi-step mash schedule. The starting temp of the second mash would be too high. I'm wondering whether that could...

PM sent. :mug:

Worked for me DeGarre. I registered at the site and sent a request for info about the rubber edge seal a few hours ago. Thanks.:)

I used 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD poly as used in Watts RO systems and slit it along the inside edge of the memorized coil shape. Worked PERFECTLY for containing the grain. BUT the mesh screen edges are not going to survive many removals and refits for cleaning. I sure would like to get the type...

This happened to me once - maybe 30 years ago - when the airlock was knocked of for 2 days. Mine worked out OK. If you are very lucky there was a layer of CO2 remaining over the beer AND no nasty microbes made their way into the fermenter. If it were mine I would keg or bottle it ASAP and...

@ Redstag Braukaiser.com has an excellent section dealing with Malt Conditioning: http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Malt_Conditioning 75-90ml (2.5-3.0oz) works well for 4 to 5kg (9-11lb) grist. I use a graduated spray bottle to fire maybe 5 shots of water onto the top of...

Thanks DG I'm going to try this - just gotta find some thin-wall, food-safe, hi-temp plastic tube. @Soviet: What gap are you setting your grain crusher? I have found that conditioning the grain gives a far better crush - but I'm still experimenting with my BC for optimum settings for the...

Please send me a code. :)

Thanks for the welcome Oblivious brew. I have read and re-read this thread several times over the past few months and I am very grateful for all the pooled knowledge. Thanks everyone. Brewed a Kolsch this morning. Tightened the BarleyCrusher down to 0.7mm (0.028"). Mash efficiency fell...

I guess I’m now a paid-up member of the Braumeister club – I took my 20L for the maiden voyage on a Wheat Beer earlier today. What a relaxed brew-session. I conditioned 4.72kg of grain with about 80-90ml of water and let it sit for 10-15 mins before I put it through my BarleyCrusher on the...

I'm in now but it DEFINITELY was down an hour or two ago.

It's down again this morning.:confused:

Mine is 15 gal. It sits on my glass stove-top across 2 burners without any hint of a wobble. The heavy 3-ply base conducts the heat quite effectively (for fairly even heat transfer).

Please send a code.:ban: