Search results

without a pic I cant imagine any kegerator not holding at least 2 slim kegs. Just buy a new 2 tap tower. A second regulator is a good idea

Those were good days....

Aside from cascade and centennial, what to do with the other hops available, For Ales...not lagers. Putting Chinook on the sidelines

Cider forum but like stated if its anything like their "craft beer" case I'd stay away....only full case of beer I've ever thrown away....horrific

I have 3 year old hops I've been using that are in an unsealed zip lock in the freezer and make great beer.....I wouldnt be concerned in the least over the hops...quality brand

Or if you dont want rig your keg with dimes and pennies just to get them to work...which sounds ridiculous... Just get a keg that was meant for beer....a sanke, and forget all your worries

Awesome thanks for the share...Just ordered 4 pounds with shipping was $36....score

Curious how you buy enough grain at some point only to have it get 3 years old? Seems odd

I cant even believe most say to use 3 year old grain....that is a long ass time for little money to replace fresh. And the OP says I'll test it out and see what happens? Willing to chance more in yeast and hop cost for 3 year old grain.....silly not to mention the time and effort to "test"...

Nothing wrong with a valve but if your having trouble with an auto siphon your doing something wrong. I use an auto siphon and its easy as came be. When I'm don transferring 12 gallons I only have around a shot glass or 2 of wort in the pot. BIAB

What gauges? If your doing BIAB a thermometer probe is just going to get in the way. Actually a thermometer isnt needed at all and just another hole in the pot. Nothing a handheld thermometer cant do. Sight gauges are a thing of the past. Just unneeded stuff on the pot to try to clean and get...

hop oil boil off at different temps...that doesnt mean a 212 boil. THe "C" hops main oil...forget the name..boils off at 160 I believe. So when using those hops for say an IPA you want to be under 160 for full benefit of the hops. My new method for IPA's is Bitter hops (first hop) @5 The rest...

Wasnt this a question on final Jeopardy? The answer was....What are big words nobody understands or uses

I've gotten weevils or some other nasty bug in old grain. I wouldnt use 3 year old grain know matter how it was stored. Your going to go through all the work and time waiting for your beer only to possibly getting a funky off stale beer. A 50# sack of 2 row is like $50....start fresh and move on.

what makes the difference between a "good" stainless pot and "bad" stainless pot is the real question.....the answer is pretty much nothing that will make a single bit of difference in the homebrew world Welded or riveted handles....anyone lifting there pot filled with scalding wort...no....so...

100 kegs on 20 pound tank....you're off the meth right?

Are you going for the name or just looking for a good pot? I have a 20 gallon stainless Concord pot as do many here. Been running it for at least 5 years and it still looks like new...It'll last forever. I think its like $100 on EBay new....way less than the ones your listed I'm sure Heres a...

I didnt know naturally carbed beer tasted any different? How does it differ? I've never naturally carbed

"free" co2 is a none issue. A $20 tank last almost a year...by far the least expensive part of brewing. If ya cant swing $20 a year your in the wrong hobby...not even worth worrying about. Plus the beer is carbed in 24 hours with a tank...its a no brainer

Air compressors create condensation. The condensation gets blown out the hose and is usually funky milky oily disgustingness. We drain air compressors every day on the job. I would never in a zillion years hook an air compressor up to a keg...might just kill ya if you did it enough