i ended up boiling aprox 1.2L of wort and I had almost 1L that i dumped into my flask, I didnt take into consideration space for the liquid yeast.. FAIL!
it will be a messy batch i am sure as the little guys start munching
i'm making a 1L starter w DME.. couple things I want clarification on...
1. during the 15 mins boil i add DEM at the beginning of the boil or the end?
2. I start out boiling 1L of water or do i start with less to accommodate for the DME?
I swear I over think things sometime :confused:
actually I can get my hands on some DME.. so i should smack the pack let the nutrients and the yeast mingle for 2-3 hours then pitch into the DME starter?
I dont have any DME or any malt extract for that matter, I am using a smack pack of Wyeast for a amber i am making.
2 questions:
is a starter required when using a smack pack?
if one is required, what can i use when i dont have any extract?
I went to rahr's site and it stated nothing about their grain other than how to be come a distributor and its mill location. No mention of they particular style of grains they malt
damn caribou got into my fermenter. :)
will this layer drop at some point or should I expect it to stay floating at the top till I rack to a secondary?
my first beer so this may seem like a stupid question but should I have this layer of snot sitting on the beer? been in the fermenter for 6 days. a caribou slobber AG kit.
I tasted a sample and i am getting a
beer aroma but a watered down coors flavor.
how can one tell if a batch is infected?
I understand beer hates sunlight but what about light from a lightbulb? I try not to check my carboy during the day but realized that maybe all light effects the beer.
I picked up a oxy/mapp kit from homedepot. was $40 for a tank and regulator. and picked up a 2 micron stone online for like $7-9 and some tubing for a couple bucks.
I've only brewed one beer but my yeast were hungry after only 2 hours in the carboy.