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When's the last time you checked calibration of your hydrometer and/or refractometer in plain cool water to ensure they read 1.000 or 0.0 as applicable? When's the last time you checked calibration of your mash thermometer in both ice water at 32 F and boiling water at whatever the boiling...

I hang onto my beer until I never want to drink it anymore. Then I know it's time to dump.

I guess I forgot to mention... Fermentis' posted ranges are not accurate.

These numbers all look to be on the low end. For S-04, my beers are seeing 77, 78, 78, 80, 82% attenuation. And these beers all have varying amounts of adjuncts which would tend to reduce attenuation slightly... but at average 78%, I am not really seeing it. And for US-05, I am seeing 84, 86...

I find that when I split a batch to try two different yeasts side by side, I can always taste differences which are usually pretty obvious. Anyone interested should try this for yourself, and not rely on Brulosophy alone, or single batches alone, but split the wort into two identical fermenters...

I would check calibration of your hydrometers or refractometer before anything else. These things fall out of calibration easily. Dropped on the floor recently? Check also that your mash thermometer is reading accurately, same kind of thing.

It does depend... If trying to collect wild yeast and bacteria on purpose, then I would say no. If doing so for any other reason, then I would say yes.

Indeed... to anyone who doesn't hang out in multiple forums... if you don't, you might be missing something that interests you. Or maybe not. :)

It might take a commercial brewery an hour or two to runoff and bring the batch to a boil, which could result in extended conversion and very low finishing gravity or higher alcohol than intended. Raising temperature to mash out to kill enzymes gives them additional time to complete runoff and...

Perhaps that's why the term has gone the way of the dodo bird.

Just do a single infusion at 65 C. Add up all the times and mash that long. So... 75 minutes. Easy as pie. Also, just as @mac_1103 suggested, you can safely skip the mashout. If you want to add dark grains and crystal near the end of the mash, that's fine. But no need to aim for 169 F (76...

I have partigyled a few times, yes. Not for Fullers clones, but just for a couple cases where I wanted to brew two batches and figured out that all I had to do for the second beer was steep a little extra dark malt or whatever to hit the style guidelines. Partigyle method can be a very useful...

Fuller's traditionally partigyles (or you could say "double batch-sparges"?) to make several different beers from the same mash. From straight first runnings they make a barleywine (Golden Pride). Then they use percentages of the first, second, and third runnings in different amounts to make...

Looks like you can get rid of your RO unit. Your county is already using one probably.

Certainly you can do that. And if that is truly what the recipe is suggesting, then I've no problem with it I suppose. But I just don't understand the concept of pressure for a Belgian style beer unless you want to suppress esters for some reason like maybe for a Stella Artois clone? But...

Recipe does look good. My only comments would be: Never ferment a Belgian under pressure, that's just stupid from an ester standpoint; and don't carbonate so high, there's no need for it, especially if bottling -- I HATE gushers. Recipe will make tasty beer for sure though.

Split "Batch 1" into two parts, and add extra pilsner malt to each, and make it again in 6 months or whatever. Or make a dunkelweizen or weizenbock or witbier with the other half. Problem solved.

Yeah... that's going to be a problem without rice hulls. At the very least, ditch the oats, that will help a lot.