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Indeed I do. I prime them the same way as I would do for beer (mostly I brew beer). Never had any problem doing this. They usually get a nice tingly carbonation.

I prime it at bottling with more honey and hope for a touch of carbonation, sweetness, and honey flavor, all three.

My 2 cents: As long as your crush is decent, and your mash pH in the acceptable range, and you plan to bring your collected wort to a boil immediately after the mash and not leave it sitting for many hours, then the mashout is probably an unnecessary extra step that can and should be eliminated.

Yeah... sorry... I don't use a robot. Robots might benefit from a lesser crush I guess. Maybe now you know the limit of your system, and can just dial down on the crush an eensie notch to get it just right.

Many (most?) people will tell you to aim for 0.5 million/ml/P for most ales. And for hefeweizen I would personally tend to aim closer to 0.3 m/m/P. Your general rate of 0.75 m/m/P would be appropriate for hybrid styles fermented around 60 F (15-16 C), such as Kolsch or altbier or warmish...

What you are doing makes a lot of sense if you are wanting to ranch clean yeast for future use. On the other hand... I think hefeweizens are better when underpitched anyway, so I would otherwise consider just pitching it straight in, without a starter, and take some after fermentation for...

It looks pretty good. Looks a lot tighter than 0.043, which is good because I was going to tell you to aim for about 0.030 anyway.

A spiced roggenbier with Zappa, eh? Sounds interesting. Far more experimental than historical. Don't forget the rice hulls.

Maybe try an overnight mash (7 or 8 hours) to get the sugars as simplified as possible, plus add more simple sugar after the mash, for low FG and high ABV from poorly attenuative yeasts. Or just use BE-256 or M31 and call it good...

"or your favorite Belgian ale strain" is the only thing that makes those recipe statistics possible.

Really? Then they surely add simple sugar, because neither of those yeasts has great attenuation. Or they brew to high OG to get the ABV they want because they'll end up with high FG.

YES YOU SHOULD!

I don't use Beersmith so I can't comment on that piece. Just wanted to comment on the recipe and the rest of it... I think Farmhouse could be an ideal solution if you are looking for something in between saison with high attenuation and a regular low attenuation yeast. I would still recommend...

I might be wrong, but I can imagine pouring 100% foam that takes a while to settle. The Czechs might like this?!

Are they both 88% lactic? One is not more dilute? Also, do the two calculators ask about mash volume vs. finished volume? Maybe there is something in the volume measurements. I am thinking... 3 mL seems like too much, and 0.7 mL might be right. But I rarely use lactic so what do I know...

Use it, fool. 😁 Anyway, you really should be mashing at a pH closer to 5.5 to 5.6, as measured at room temperature, not 5.4. So maybe when in doubt, use the lesser amount of acid. References on the mash pH topic...

Fermenting cold AND pressure fermenting at the same time are misapplication. You'll be creating conditions that are undesirable to the yeast cells and they'll produce even more sulfur and diacetyl, and potentially autolysis. No thanks. But also... go ahead and experiment with it and see what...

Right or wrong, I use less priming sugar when priming a keg vs. bottles. Does it matter? I don't know. Am I seeing enough carbonation in my primed kegs? Yes.

From my experience, lager has more to do with yeast selection than anything else. Fermentation and conditioning temperature is secondary to how much esters the selected yeast is producing. So... I have found that using pastorianus yeasts at warmer temperatures still usually produces a beer...