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This is my favorite thus far. I like the beer so much that I am afraid to mess with it. Friend of mine that works at a well known VT brewery liked it so much that he paid my entry fee into 2 competitions. Fear not...if I win an award, I will be sure to give props to the consummate tweaker

On that topic, I always make a small starter to wake up the little buggers from their frozen slumber. It's just my preference.

Like I said, use that article that I posted as a guideline. 1 part glycerine to 4 parts distilled water (20%). Put slurry in 50mL vials and top off with the 20% glycerine and you will be golden.

Ha ha, I was literally just coming back to edit my previous post because that explanation occurred to me.:mug: HOWEVER, this still makes me wonder. You have 13% by volume in your method, but I wonder if that makes the actual glycerine/water ratio MUCH higher than expected. That article...

I am thinking this may be your problem based on the math. 29.6mL of glycerine added to 225mL of distilled water (I assume) gives you a total volume of 254.6mL of glycerine/water. 29.6/254.6 = 11.6% by volume Which you then further diluted with slurry, so your final concentration was...

I'm not sure I agree with above. Assume at minimum 1 billion cells per mL, which is conservative and that gives you 250B cells and that is more than enough for 3 gal of 1.037 wort. Even at half that estimate, you have 125B cells and that is also plenty. I'm not saying that you should worry...

Your question is confusing. YES, it is fine to put all dry hop additions into the fermenter. That is pretty much the most common method. Some people will add dry hop additions directly to the keg and then gas it up and serve. Make sense?

I just opened mine up to add first dry hops and WOW!!!! Looked amazing and smelled amazing. Second dry hop on Thursday and bottle on Saturday

So let me get this straight so that I understand. Lets say your recipe called for a boil volume of 7 gallons. You started with 7 gallons of water and mashed... lost around 1-2 gallons because the grain absorbed it. Put 5.5 gallons (lets assume) into the kettle and boiled it for 60 minutes and...

Aerate right before you pitch the yeast.

RO water provides a blank slate with no minerals, that is the main advantage. Users simply add the minerals desired and off they go. Bru'n water is a an Excel spreadsheet program for computing water chemistry that is designed by fellow HBT user mabrungard. Look it up online and download and...

I would definitely recommend that you get some gypsum (CaSO4) Epsom salt (MgSO4) calcium chloride NON-IODIZED salt / sodium chloride As well as acid for pH purposes. As far as the water report, I don't know what to say, I am not familiar with how they treat the water in Montreal. In my opinion...

And also, if that water is treated then you will want to remove chlorine and chloramine with campden tablets before use

This is a "balanced" profile because it balances the hoppy and malty characteristics of an amber ale and perhaps even a pale ale. For a blonde ale, there is less malty and less hoppy to contend with. The ratio I think you are referring to is SO4 : CHLORIDE and honestly I think it's all a...

I can help get you started in the right direction. 1) salts and acid additions can be added to the strike water before mashing OR directly to the mash itself. I check mash pH about 5 minutes into the process and often make additional salt additions if needed then. I add salt and acids directly...

I would even go as far as saying that the yeast is 100% dead. 170 degrees is too hot. Get another packet of dry yeast and pitch it ASAP.

5.5 gallons of Centennial IPA = 10,267

Checking back in at the 14 day ferment point. You were not kidding about that thick krasuen. I poked a sanitized hydrometer at the top and it sounded like I was hitting the bark on a tree. Wierd!!! Website says it is an example of a true "top cropping yeast" and so now I know what that...

The external layers are composed of high purity aluminum and the literature that I have says that it is non-toxic and non-carcinogenic Check out the documentation HERE

I cut the piece to fit inside the cooler and it ends up right on top of the actual mash. That way there is minimal air space above the mash to lose heat to. I have a 5 gal round coooler and I routinely put 4.8 gallons of grist in. Stirring it is possible it just takes patience and a good...