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eh, the burners will cook off and i'm guessing around the keg bottoms the same. but there is high temp paint for those areas if i so desire. had to get something on it to stem the surface rust until i finish plumbing it.

My co2 expenses sky rocketed lately. Only thing I saw was there is a new "environmental hazard" fee. Apparently C02 is dangerous to the environment now..... Um guys, where do you think the C02 came from before it was in the bottle?

I am really starting to go for this idea. Its job description is to run a RIMS mash tun. Plus I can use it double duty to run a fan for my smoker. Win/Win. I really wanted to do the whole brewery control panel with a mounted PID but this bad boy sitting on top may have to do. Anyone...

You can do the same thing by taking some rope soaked in a fuel heating the bottle and dipping it. YMMV looks a bit rough

Figured i'd share. I always liked a bit of fire engine red in my brew frames. :)

I am trying to figure out how to back pump into my sparge kettle so I can build in a water filter and not have to lift ten gallons to pour in. BUT the only way I can do it right now is to have the filtered water back flow thru my pump back into the kettles out port (brewmagic style)...

paypal sent, your pm box is full though. Curious, your quote "The heating element I use is a short, high density Camco element" In your original RIMS tube you went the typical route of ultra low density 240v element. Why switch to a short high density version?

I'm in need of a RIMS tube, I'm not a flow guy but does having the input to the tub midpoint cause and stagnation of the flow in the left side near the element? how do you mount your temperature probe? is there a well, or do you use a fitting outside the output? Are the triclamp to 1/2"...

do you control the temp of the air around the beer? or do you put the temperature probe against the carboy itself?

I am good at making lagers. chest freezer and temp control. but what do you guy suse to keep the ales from running away? I had my room perfectly dialed in to 64 so i figured my Belgium quad would be ok in there. I checked it this AM and the liquid crystal is running at 72-74. high range...

Cant say i'm left handed, but i am a pilot / Air traffic controller :rockin:

I am currently building a brew-magic clone And i'm planning on a PID with RIMS tube electric design with direct fire assist. I also have an UDS smoker that i would like to add a fan and controller to. Can these two systems be the same thing? It seems the roles are fairly similar...

You are right, I forgot that Quad's are Ales, not Lagers. My yeast numbers were way too high.

Actually only need to grow 136 billion additional cells per pack(11.5 gram). One of the problems is Mr Maltys calculator only calculates starter size for liquid yeasts. Theoretically the way they dry the yeast they pack it with nutrient to help it re-hydrate. A starter can deplete those...

As I am transitioning into making 10 gallon batches the numbers in Mr. Malty are HUGH to me as far as cell count numbers. to make 10 gallons of my big quad I will need 3 tubes of yeast and a 15 liter starter?!?! Do people begin making starters in there carboys? can I do a stepped...

That i need 732 billion yeast cells to do this Belgian quad, the Kit came with two packs of T-58 dry yeast. putting me at 460 billion cells.... Mr malty says not to do a starter with dry yeasts. But i need 40% more yeast cells. I don't want to have to buy another two packs of yeast...

I use my dip tubes to protect my sight glasses

Sign me up!:rockin:

consensus online agrees around 28* F. i think i would be worried trying to approach that, lol

Ok scratch the pressure part. spent some time with the water phase chart. need to be in the 10 Mpa range to effect freezing temps much. sea level pressure is around 100 Kpa and if I did my math right pressure in my kegerator is around 169 Kpa. Not enough to effect freeze temp i believe