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How about using vodka or burben whiskey not for extracting the fat/oil, but for extacting the flavour from the bean seads?

I heard people usullay soak the beans in vodka for several days before adding the "solution" in the secondary, because beans have vegetable oil which is bad for beer. Why you "dry bean"? Is that what you mean by "dry bean"? :)

I do all grain. I cannot get extract at the place I live...

Thanks. More questions for details: 1. Do you just chop the slice in to several sections? Why not cut it open and get the seeds inside and add the seeds? 2. How about add them into boiling or first fermentation? 3. If add in secondary, do you sanitize them and how? Cheers. :)

I have brewed chocolate stout and it tastes OK. Now I plan on brewing a batch of vanilla stout. Just wondering what to add to get the vanilla flavour and when to add, by how much? Also any other tips for a good vanilla stout? Like does it need a cream mouthfeel? Thanks.

For Imperial Stout the PH I got is still a bit low I think

That might be the good range for pale beers according to Palmer's book: How to Brew, but my batch is an Imperial Stout, which should taste better with between 4.3-4.7. I think I am a bit off..

I brewed an Imperial Stout with a Ph 5.4 at the beginning of mash, then 5.2 after mash, drop to 4.95 after boiling ( before fermentation to be precise), I think at these stages the PH are all normal ( correct ), but after 2 weeks of fermentation ( when I bottle it ) I tested the PH drop to...

But the bottling sugar need a little oxygen to be fermented at this stage, right?

How can you control the speed of the flow when racking? especially when the beer first touch the bottom of the priming bucket when will cause splash.

Kegging seems the safter way to do it. After dry hopping for around 7 days, I bring down the tempeture down to around 5 degrees celsius for making the beer clear, then racking and bottlling. Is there any chance the cold tempeture making the yeast to settle so O2 dominate it which makesit beer...

yes, I do use a small aeration inflator to aerate my 10L wort for about 10mins before pitching the yeast. But like you said if the fermataiton went well it should not be no problem. I do dry hopping and add carbonation sugars. I fill the bottle by sticking tube to the bottom, firstly the wort...

I found my beers are easily and quickly oxidizated. For example, for IPA or Pale Ale I drink 2 weeks after bottling is fine, but from the third week the beer turn bad quickly. I think they are badly oxidizated from my taste.. Normally two weeks after bottling I put the beer in the fridge to...

Say if I aim to get 10L wort into the fermentor. Use 18L RO water in total = 12L as mashing water + 6L as sparge water ( I will get 7L first wort and overall 13L before boiling. ). Should I calculate the PPM for salts according to 18L? 10L or 12L?

@Silver_Is_Money Briliant! Many thanks man. One more question is that should I add the salts ( 10g of Cacl2, 6g of gypsum and 6g of epsom ) at all mashing? or add them at mashing, sparge and boil separately?

Say if I add 10g of Cacl2, 6g of gypsum and 6g of epsom, how to calculate the individual weight of Ca, Mg, SO4, CL, etc? If it is complicated, could you recommend any convenient software (online or off line) to do the math? Thanks.

Actually I was using repackaged yeast before, but since I had some fermentation problems, I started using original package imported, like this batch. Now I am buying stuff from 超级麦芽自酿啤酒（Super Malt Homebrewing Beer）in Taobao. They are really good and have more varity of malts, hops and yeasts...

If it is contaminated by diastaticus, 1. is it from the Saison yeast? 2. is it contaminated by air borne or only throught equipments? 3. how can it be proved? By tasting it? What flavour should I expect then? Thank you.

Wow, did not expect meeting someone in China here. I am in China too, but Beijing. Acutally I have another hydrometer which can be read in Plato and SG at the same time. I bought it on Taobao at Manpin store( 慢品) and I just checked they still have it in store. :)

The Hydrometer I normally used is reading in Plato, but I have another one in 1.000.. and next time I will use both of them to double check. Yes, I did the conversion by an online software which I believe is reliable.