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I ordered half a pound from Farmhouse brewing supply over the weekend and received notification today that it has shipped. I brewed up a Pliny clone using Magnum instead of Simcoe over the weekend because I couldn't find the Simcoe anywhere. Now I can use Simcoe for the dry hopping in a couple...

Well, I brew 2.5 gallon batches because I can do it entirely indoors on the stove wit reasonable boil times, and because it allows me to experiment a bit more. So I use a 5 gallon cooler, but the idea is the same.

I use the bag in a cooler method and it works great. I tried doing the one pot BIAB method and I just couldn't maintain stable temps. I guess there is one more thing to clean up, but I haven't found that to be a big deal.

Once you have a moment to reflect, it would be really interesting to hear your "lessons learned". What went right? What would you do differently if you had a "do over"? Anyway, congrats on what you have already accomplished. You are living the dream dude!

I would guess that 10 days is not enough time, particularly for the larger bottles. As Revvy constantly reminds us, 3 weeks is considered to be a mini mum amount of time for conditioning. Bigger beers and bigger bottles are going to require more time. I would give the 12's another week and the...

That's great to hear. It's bubbling away in the fermenter now, so I'm really looking forward to giving it a try. I don't know if I'll ever get a chance to try the real thing.

Brewing up some O'Dark:30 from a recipe in a recent BYO. Never tried it before but it sounded like something I'd like.

I tend to like stronger beers with bold hop profiles, so my ranking put the black juniper ale at the top of the list, followed by the double IPA, then the CA common, and lastly, the weizenbock. My son, who is just starting to try out craft beers liked the weizenbock the best, so it is probably a...

Depending on how big a beer you are making, you might need 3 or 4 vials to get an equivalent number of yeast cells that you could get from a big starter. So it can be a whole lot cheaper and a starter leaves no doubt whether your yeast are active.

Ok. That makes more sense. For a minute there I was worried that you had heard something bad about whirlfloc.

Curious as to why you recommend avoiding the use of whirfloc or Irish moss?

Yo.

Fredericksburg Texas has what they call a Bed & Brew: http://www.yourbrewery.com/bed%20&%20brew.htm

Taken out of context, this statement could have a whole different meaning. Yes, I have a dirty mind.

Thank you for posting that. It was extremely informative, and there is no substitute for hearing the lessons from real life. I have a couple of questions. First, has it all been worth the effort? Second, where are you guys located? If I'm ever in your area I would love to stop by and drink a...

I am curious as to why the analog version would behave differently than the digital version. Why not tape it to the fermenter?

I have had the oak cubes in for two weeks now. I sampled after one week and really couldn't taste any oak. Now after two weeks, the oak flavor is starting to come through. I'm guessing that in another week or two, it will be about right.

I would think that in many cases it would do no good to let the beer age. If the brewery has filtered and pasteurized the beer, then no amount of aging is going to help. I think a lot of the big beers like barley wines are intentionally left with live yeast in them so they will improve with age.

I have iBrewmaster for the iPad. I like it for tracking batches (i.e., when batches are due for dry hopping, bottling, etc.), but it is far less capable than Beersmith or Beertools when it comes to doing the detailed calculations for all grain batches. If you can only buy one, I don't think...

I know you are probably really anxious to find out if your yeast is working, but more than likely they are doing fine. I would wait at least a week before checking gravity.