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I used to use a spunding valve as well, but found it wasn't necessary. I just leave the PRV open now. As always YMMV...

I transfer fully carbed beer like that regularly, just go slow. I suppose chilling the receiving keg might add some insurance as well, but I never have.

Some of the SS dry-hoppers available with a screw on lid can use the small-mouth white plastic lids available for mason jars, that way you don't have to permanently alter the dry-hopper. Undersize the hole for the grommet to ensure a tight fit around the diptube since they are a bit smaller than...

HERE is some food for thought relative to mash temperature... I like a good Hockhurz as well :D

Great to hear that you are moving in the right direction. How long of a boil did you use?

As I mentioned I have an open top mesh basket, but I made a central recirculating tube very similar to the COFI system and I have found a sparge as I described a couple posts up to be beneficial when trying to get north of 1.070.. Having said that, you may get good results just mashing the full...

I don't have the COFI and use a open top mesh basket so it's easier for me, but you really need to find a way to sparge with the COFI. The pics on the BB site show that they have a bail handle on them, so maybe you can raise and suspend the basket using the bail handle, remove the top, sparge...

THIS goes a long way towards explaining why you are missing the OG on bigger beers. In a nutshell you need to boil longer so you can use more water overall, but reserve a gallon or so from the mash so you can sparge...

1318 is what some call a true "top-cropping" yeast, the krausen persists for a long time. You can always scoop some along with a bit of the beer into sanitized mason jars to pitch later...

Heck, go 500F if your oven can do it. Plus its pre-boil, not that it's impossible for something to get through all that, but highly unlikely...

Also if you keg it might be over-carbed, which tastes metallic to me...

There is a four part series at Sweet Marias, part three covers manipulating the drying (yellowing) phase. https://legacy.sweetmarias.com/library/categories/roasting-theory I've recently been watching the "Roaster School Online" produced by Mill City Roasters which provides a lot of good info on...

FWIW, almost every other batch for me these days is a lager and I've only used 34/70. I do have temp control so those do get fermented at 55F. However, I have used 34/70 for the last three "ales" fermented at 65F and I have been very pleased with the results, super-clean so far. I do maintain...

You should be fine, shouldn't notice much hop flavor in an RIS. Just reduce your additions to 1.5 and .75 to account for the higher AA% of the warrior.

This summer I did three different batches of a cucumber/wheat lager that is 64% wheat malt, no issues. HERE is an interesting read on Carapils... The original recipe for the wheat lager above used 1lb. of carapils, for my third batch I swapped that for 1lb. of base malt and did not notice...

I also mill my wheat malt twice, separate from the rest of the grist because I don't want to be changing my mill gap, but beyond that even with a grist that is 60% or more wheat malt (usually Best Malz) I have never had conversion issues with a 60 minute mash.

Additionally, if any of your transfers include a ball valve that's been in use for a while it would definitely be worthwhile to completely disassemble and inspect it. Happened to a friend of mine, I got one of these after his experience...

Have you tried brewing a beer like a bitter, pale ale or blonde, something without the huge dry-hop? Here's a good one to try with the 1318... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=83878&highlight=common+room

I am going to brew something similar this weekend, but using Tettnang instead of Hallertau. Do you have enough experience with both to comment on the difference?

I believe the original will say "Styrian Savinjski"