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Nice work on the copper!. Maybe put in some LED strip lights to cover the existing holes for the wiring?

I recently purchased a used micro matic beer tap tower and I am in the process of experimenting with cooling the beer down using a pond pump recirculating cold water to bring down the beer temp. With a 200 GPH pond pump and water inside my keezer, I was able to bring down the beer temp...

I repurposed an old dinner buffet for my grain mill cabinet, I picked it up for $40. It has dovetail joints on the cabinet drawers but I had to replace the worn out wheels. I also gave it a coat of chauk paint to give it a more moderen look.

I also hate wearing gloves, I don't even wear them doing oil changes but I will wear them if I have any cuts on my hand. I also wear silicone gloves when working near hot wort.

Welcome! Enjoy your new hobby. Prost!

Magnum, Saphir & Spalt for my Southern German/Austrian Pils.

With the assumption that you are using this to control a pump, as I would not recommend an On mode to control a heating element, I would make the following changes: Wire the automation controller relay in series with the Auto mode to switch contactor coil. Wire the On mode so that it will...

Never underestimate the affects of leaking CO2. Worst case it may cause asphyxiation if the room is not well ventilated. Unlike propane or natural gas, CO2 does not have any "scent" added to it so a leak may go unnoticed.

Welcome back!. :bigmug: Do you still have your beer equipment after 30 years?

I recently brewed Gorden Strongs version of U Fleku which has the grain proportions of the U Fleku article. Instead of the traditional decoction mash, I used a kettle mash (Kesselmaishe) where you drain off the wort and boil the entire mash and then add the wort back for the final conversion...

I would suggest next time to temporary hook up CO2 to the beer line to see if there was a blockage. If there was a blockage work you way backwards to find it. I never had to crank on the lid band clamp on my Spike, only hand tight. I find that if the lid gasket is on backwards it will leak...

I hook a gas hose up to connect the corny to the fermenter. Both should be at the same pressure. If I want to "bump start" the flow, I just pull the pressure relief on the corny for a second.

Welcome Hector! During Prohibition in the USA (before my time) there was more homebeer being produced than there is today. The ingredients were obtained with the "intent" to make bread.

I would have never thought that way in my younger days.

I ended up doing both around the same time and would do it again if I had to do it over. Regarding your "cheap SOB" comment, I look at my brewing hobby as a "life is too short" attitude. If I was in your shoes I would look at what your ideal brew system would consist of and work toward that goal.

Agree, however I don't believe that the "normal" chemicals (PBW) available to homebrewers are agressive enough to do a CIP in a large vessel. Are the more caustic chemicals abtainable to homebrewers?

Doesn't manyways imply that you can actually fit through them? It looks like they are sized to be able to spray a hose around the inside but not actually go inside. I am asking since I have 300 liter unjacketed vessels that I plan on brewing beer with but the "manway" is too small to fit inside.

I like the metal corrugated metal wall panels. Clean up must be a bitch without manways. For your fermenters, do you use "industrial" chemicals to CIP the inside since they are too large to hand wash?

This was in response to: "i so want to know where the funnel came into it?" No electricity back 5000 years ago.