Search results

RIMS and HERMS – Recirculating Infusion Mash Systems for Beer The OP is not infusing the wort.

I'm sorry to be that guy but your system is a Recirculating Mash System, a RIMS would heat the wort inside a tube hence the term infusion. The advantage of your system is that there is less chance of burning the mash.

Glad to help out. By recirculating back into my 10 gal cooler, with dumping the initial runoff, I am able to reduce chemicals and water while cleaning up my brewing equipment. By switching out the hoses, I can clean all of them as well.

I use a hot water rinse followed by hot PBW then another hot water rinse and finally starsan recirculating through my pump, hoses and plate chiller. I perform this routine after pumping the wort into the fermentor which is easier to clean up rather than waiting until the next day when the wort...

Welcome! When I went all grain I used a 3 tier approach using gravity in my garage. I have since moved my brewing operation into my basement, mainly due to avoid moving my equipment from the basement to the garage. I have a gas burner to heat strike water and boil. A cooler mash tun with a...

That's what I have done except I use camlocks. The 3 way valve has another advantage, I can drain the downstream tubing of hot water/wort when I need to change connections.

Here are a few options: Brixies Brewers Is located in Brookfield IL Homebrewers Pride of the Southside (HOPS) Is located in the Chicago South Side Brewers of South Suburbia (BOSS) Is located in the Chicago South Suburbs Urban Knaves of Grain Is located in DuPage County

Welcome! I recommend joining a local homebrew club, there are a good selection to choose from in the Chicago area and are spread out so that there may be one near you.

I finally got around to repaint my grain mill stand.

Maybe consider painting over it with chauk paint, that way you can write/draw what you want.

I agree as far as measuring voltages. I'm suggesting that with LED lights there could be leakage causing the 80V scenario.

The 240V LED lights that I am familiar with are intended for the European market, they have 240V on one leg and a neutral on the second leg unlike the US where we have (2) separate 120V legs to get 220V. In your circuit there is no neutral for the LED lights.

Another safety concern, I assume that you are feeding your control panel with a 50A, 2-pole, GFCI breaker.

I don't mean to be the A-hole, but I work in the power plant industry which personal protection is priorty. Please put your personel safety as a priorty and double check your wiring.

I can't stress enough to recheck all your wiring. If you don't feel up to the task, have someone qualified do it. A 50A 220V circuit is not something to experiment with.

It looks like the A2 on the main contactor is not wired to the other side of the Power On/Off switch, instead it looks like it is wired to another contactor coil. Recheck your wiring for the Power On/Off switch circuit as well as the remaining wiring.

I suspect that the problem is leakage current through the LED lights. I am a bit rusty with LED lights but adding a series resisitor (2.5 - 5K ohm?) may correct the problem. Link

I agree with itsnotrequired's assesment that the 120V source was incorrectly hooked up to the load side. If that is the case I suggest verifying all the wiring (with the power off).

It appears that you only included one page of the schematics, I have attached what I believe the schematic set for your unit. Your photo appears to be the main contactor. The coil is wired through the Power Off/On selector switch. With the switch in the on position will send 120V to the coil...