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From MrMalty.com "Continuous pure oxygen from a tank or oxygen generator is both expensive and unnecessary." I would build a stir plate and buy the O2 setup if I were you. Both will help make better beer, but continuously pumping oxygen in your starter is expensive. If you have an old desktop...

I haven't used this methods myself. It looks like a lot of effort but damn do the results look nice. http://www.instructables.com/id/Best-Way-to-Season-Cast-Iron-Pans-Flax-Seed-Oil/?ALLSTEPS

I make bulk concentrated tea beforehand, and then dilute it when adding to the kombucha. Because it's stored in the fridge and I also use room temp tap water to dilute, nothing hot is going into the kombucha. If you're doing continuous brewing this is way easier to brew tea every couple of weeks...

Open one up see if it tastes or smells bad.

Hey Mate, I would post this on aussiehomebrewer.com. This is a US forum and Australian hops (Galaxy) are unavailable to most brewers in the states. Nor would they be familiar with Little Creatures.

If you're going to do that maybe you want some brew balls. http://www.brewballstore.com/ Disclaimer: not affiliated

Use star-san or idophor as a no rinse sanitizer, look into brew in a bag (BIAB) for a cheap way to get into all grain.

No offense dude, but you really should have read up a lot more before even attempting a lager. They take a lot more time and effort. Read this http://www.braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php?title=Fermenting_Lagers#Pitching_rate_and_yeast_propagation First off as you said you severly underpitched. Mr...

I've had the original Ooma hub for about 2.5 years now and I love it. I took it with me when I moved to Australia 2 years ago and now I have free unlimited calling to all my friends/family back in the U.S. Now if I could only get them to remember the time difference...

From mrmalty.com: "Q: Should I add oxygen to my starter? Yes. You'll get far healthier yeast and far more yeast growth if the yeast have oxygen throughout the process. Adding oxygen at the beginning helps, but the most effective starters provide a continuous source of oxygen. Oxygen is...

Problem is in Australia everything costs 3x as much. 50L coolers you can get at walmart in the US for $20-30 go for $150 easy here. A turkey fryer burner is $200-300 here. When I moved here from the states, I almost didn't pick up the hobby again because of this. Then I discovered BIAB and...

Finally have this built. Got lots of inspiration from others on this thread. Just an old beater chest freezer painted black with a stained wooden collar. Painted the other chest freezer I use for fermentation so it wouldn't get jealous.

Also, with liquid yeast you should really be making a starter. Browse mrmalty.com for info and a pitch rate calculator.

Maybe you lost more beer than you though during racking, bottling, etc. So then you could have primed for 5 gal when you really had 4 or so. I've made that mistake before. You could do what the last guy said and chill them to 33F or so and open them quickly and pour into a glass before it gushes...

Sorry I just wanted to address this one point. You will not get off flavors from chilling slowly. I feel like most threads I reply to I simply try to campaign for the "no chill" method...guess I'm doing it again. Look into the no chill technique, makes for an easy brew day and great tasting beer.

Yea crush the hell out of the grain and you can easily get 80+ efficiency with BIAB. Look into "no chill" and then you'll have a super easy and quick brew day.

Co-op on the older and new Splinter cell games are fun as hell.

Make sure to stir a lot when you're raising the heat and checking the temperature. That's why it jumped in temp so quickly, gotta get that mash homogenized.

yes

Yea that works. You can always use the hole for something else. Here's a calculator you can use to see what sort of heating times you're going to get with different elements http://www.manskirtbrewing.com/calcs.shtml#electrichdr. I do 20L batches with a 2400w element and while it works great I...