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Dumb question, but I have a new 10 gallon kettle that I'm going to attempt to do full boils in. It has the 2 half inch valves - a bottom one for the ball valve, and a top one that I will use for a thermometer (because they're nifty). If I use an immersion chiller, after the wort is cooled, can...

No doubt. I guess I just saw all these people being worried about water chemistries and figured I wasn't going to get involved. I was thinking about doing a partial mash though since I have 2 kettles now. I'll have to find some free time and do some reading, but I imagine it can't be terribly...

I might get there one day - like you mentioned I already have the kettle... and if I decide to move to 10 gallon batches could it double as a lauter tun? I'm not terribly familiar with all grain, except that the inputs are in fact cheaper, but all of a sudden water chemistry is a factor...

I know someone recommended I look into all grain, but I don't even own a burner for this new kettle - much of the decision about this kettle has to do with initial outlays of money. Either way, I'm not confident enough in my extract brews to move to all grain even if I had the desire.

ACBrewer - well hopefully you're right! Worse comes to worse my boil size will certainly get bigger and maybe I only top off a half gallon or so? That would still help beer quality right? Also - doesn't it mean that I no longer would use regular kit schedules? I would have to learn to modify...

Hey ACBrewer - I have a gas stove, however, the 10 gallon kettle covers both burners, so I thought that might be an option. I figured since 1 burner could get 3.5 gallons boiling, 2 burners could get 5.5... but what do I know...

I see - I guess I should have also mentioned that I live in an apartment in the city without a backyard, so the only place where I could brew and move to ferment would be up in the suburbs - which just adds a bunch more time to the whole process... What makes kegging get so expensive? I'm...

Hey guys, I've got a bit of a question, and I figured only brewers would be helpful here... I'm an extract brewer, and have only 6 batches under my belt. My beer has its issues (beginners stuff) but I think they'll start coming together nicely soon enough. For Christmas, I asked for...

The beers will eventually die down for the most part - but waiting 20 minutes to drink it is a pain in the rump...

That's all fine and good - but the yeast that's used has an attenuation range doesn't it? So I could potentially be stalled out at the low end of the attenuation range, bottle, yeast gets excited again and there I am again? Overcarbed? Is that potentially right?

So to determine if it's stalled - how do I determine that before I bottle??? Maybe use something like hopville.com to account for my yeast and see what final gravity I should be getting? If being 2 gravity points off would cause some annoyances in the beer, how is anyone ever certain the yeast...

Possibility... I don't think it's an infection either. Before the latest got all overcarbed I had 9 of them in a day - I wouldn't drink 9 of anything if it tasted like crap... which is what I imagine infected beers pry taste like...

My beer will bottle condition for a minimum of 3 weeks before I'll even pop the first one. For the latest brew, a porter, I had a few of them at the 3 week mark and they were a little undercarbed, about where I would want them for a porter I would think. Now it's been a month since then and...

I'm not losing a lot - I certainly lose a little bit, but not anywhere near a gallon or anything. And the equipment is all fairly new, as am I - I want to say the batch I brewed on Saturday was my 5th.

Ooops! I must have meant ounces, 3/5th of the package of sugar that comes with the kits...

So my bottling process is that I auto-siphon (to sanitize the auto-siphon for putting the beer in, obviously) a bunch of star san into the bottling bucket and give it a good shake for about 30 seconds and then let it sit for a couple of minutes, then I'll run the star san from the bottling...

I have a hydrometer - I gather an original gravity (and since I'm a bit of a rookie, and I use extract kits I'm pretty close to what the recipe calls for) and I ferment typically for 4-6 weeks. At the end of this I grab a sample 2 days before I want to bottle, if it's what the recipe calls for...

Hey guys, I've got a few batches under my belt and each one of them has become obnoxiously overcarbed. In one I even added only 3g of the dextrose to the bottling bucket before bottling. Is it possible that I'm just storing the bottles in too warm of a location? Is it advisable to store...

Hey friends - I use a lot of LME, but was looking to avoid the darkening affects of the LME as well as the "extract twang" that is oft mentioned. A common solution to these problems is the late addition from what I've seen, but I have a quick question about it... If it's a 60 minute...

Mmmk - I think I must have confused everybody... Maybe this is better - I'm going to brew a kolsch and an APA with wyeast kolsch (2565). They're going to ferment in a room that sits in the high 50s, low 60s for about 5-6 weeks most likely. Then to the bottles/keg. Any problems with this...