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My overall design is different from the one in this thread. I have an externally cooled stainless conical, so in my case the 1/2" copper tubing that makes up the coil is bent out to form the connection. 1/2" ID tubing fits right on the 1/2" OD copper without the need for any additional...

I was the one looking at the us plastics disconnects. Got a few pairs and just hooked them to my system last weekend. They work great and are of high quality for plastic disconnects. I only get a few drops of coolant when I disconnect. I'm also using a short length of silicon tubing between...

The ones doing my garden are fine so long as they don't actually freeze, so I'm not too worried about temp but that is probably the most likely reason for them not to work. In my experience, the failure mode for them typically is the expansion of freezing water cracking a seal or connection...

It's still in progress, so no verdict yet. I'm just going to use cheap solenoid irrigation valves. Cost-wise they're not that much cheaper than the Chinese motorized ball valves everyone gets, but I like the fact I can buy parts at lowes in case something breaks in the middle of a batch and...

I threw together a high-level plan for the overall system. I will be using a brewpi spark as the brains, but I am still undecided on how much of the brewpi software I'll be using. The hardware is exactly what I want, but as of now the software doesn't seem like it fits for glycol systems or...

This weekend was spent on building an enclosure for the chiller. I had it mechanically functional at christmas, but it was rather ugly and vulnerable to dust from my woodworking tools. I build a simple box to dress it up and act as a way to keep that dust out. For ventilation, I got two...

Thanks. I went ahead and ordered 2 sets of the us plastics ones. Once I have a chance to play with them, I'll report back on how well they work.

you mean like these? http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=28352&catid=926 For whatever reason they don't sell them as sets, just individual pieces. Looks like for one set it's about $27 ($15.66 for the male end and 10.88 for the female) for 1/2" barbed. Thats essentially the...

Ok, finally have whittled down the honey-do list to the point that I'm about to restart my build. In the meantime many holidays have past, I've built cabinets for the laundry room, built patio furniture, put in some retaining walls and a couple vegetable gardens, and generally landscaped the...

My design is a bit different, but I really like the idea of the hydraulic disconnects because I can't find anything else with an integrated shutoff on both sides of the connector. After a 3 month hiatus to work on other non-brewing projects I'm about to restart my build. Here's what I'm doing...

Is this the one you found? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-set-1-2-ISO-7241-1-B-Hydraulic-Hose-Quick-Disconnect-Couplers-700-08-08S-/380689648928?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a2df0d20 I believe its the same as this model on their site -...

Do you recall which seller? I cannot find any stainless disconnects on eBay for anything close to that price. Everything I see is $100/pair, even on eBay.

The hydraulic disconnects linked earlier in this thread are carbon steel, not stainless. I was about ready to order some when I noticed that. The site listed a couple pages back that had brass ones also carries stainless ones, but they are quite expensive. (~$100/pair for 1/2" NPT). Brass at...

I've just used spare lengths of soft copper tubing for years. It seems like something I always have on hand and I tend to make them on brew day when I realize I need them. Put some flux in one end, hammer it shut and solder. Putting the flux in first is the only real trick since it helps draw...

I've seen the black flakes before on my non-perlick taps. Since I got tap plugs I have not seen them. I'm pretty sure its just dried up beer that gets stuck in the tap (it will grow mold too if left). The forward seal perlicks don't let as much beer remain in the tap past the seal and with...

fwiw, you're right about the rims alone not having the power at 110v. I have a similar rims and do 10 gal batches, and it would take way way too long to step up just based off the power of that element. In my case, I have my mash tun direct fired with propane, which does the bulk of the...

I had one rebooting often and it turned out to be an issue with overheating. I have a 24v power supply in there that was always-on and generating just enough heat to matter. I didn't have a probe in there, but it only felt "slightly warm" to me. I rewired it and added a relay switch to only...

My wife decided to try her hand at making cheese. We've never made cheese before, so she got a kit and started reading over the directions and was concerned about how she was supposed to keep the milk at the correct temperatures throughout the process. I thought that the problem seemed quite...

You drill will be fine. It's just sheet metal. Drilling it is more about going slow and taking your time than power. Use very little pressure and let the bit do the work (standard advice for most tools. Pressure is a poor substitute for sharp tools.). That'll help prevent it from getting...

I did seriously consider the cool zone jacket, but it doesn't work with the design of the blichmann unless I want to cut and grind off the welded posts that the legs bolt to. I am leaning that route for use around a keg I use for the second half of 10gal batches. Brewed a batch yesterday, and...