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Europe runs on 240v/50hz. Most dc power supplies for electronics these days take 120v/60hz (US standard) or 240v/50hz(EU standard) just so they have one part they can use globally. The hertz is important when you’re talking AC/DC conversion. The values of the capacitors and such in the supply...

I have used a bucket of ice water and a cheap Harbor freight sump pump to do essentially that. The ice would prechill the water coming out of the hose so I could get those last few degrees even when my tap water was too warm.

I remove hoses and hang them to dry each brew. I leave most of the other fittings assembled save a few on the kettle that tend to need hop and break residue cleaned out. If I try leaving the hoses on, everything stays just a bit damp and it starts to smell slightly. So long as everything has...

Did your conical not come with somewhere for a thermowell? I put the probe there. On my older blichman, I use a stopper with 2 holes — one for my bubbler and I slide a 18” stainless thermowell down the other so that the probe is in the beer.

Typically that’s just done because one outlet is on a switch for a table lamp or something. If it’s an older home odds are good it’s not actually two separate breakers in the panel so the max you can draw is 15amp total.

I use a thermowell. I’ve gotten mine down to about 44F using pure water in the chiller set to 38F. I routinely do lagers at 48F. 10 degree differential between chiller and beer temp seems to be the sweet spot for me. I’m inside in and air conditioned room now. Back when I was in the garage...

I wrapped my blichman with 20’ of 1/2” and soldered it to the outside. Covered the whole lot in that reflective plastic insulation and it works wonderfully. I like not having an internal coil to clean or any chance of the glycol ever leaking into my beer

This is a large reason why so many beer styles we k ow and love today exist. Breweries historically just wanted to make the best beer they could with whatever water they already had. It’s only in modern times that we expect a brewery anywhere to make any style they want that would require...

No doubt the electric brewery panel could be enhanced by replacing the controllers. That’s an easy enough swap. What really drew me to them was the high voltage design. Some may say it’s overkill, but I like extra peace of mind having the safety interlocks, etc. some of the newer options...

I can second the electric brewery. Been using one of their systems for 2 years now and it is imho the best designed panel out there

You want this https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/silversolder.htm Works great to solder stainless

I think that’s just an air handler and not the actual compressor. My guess is a real heat pump should work fine, but it’d cost 20x what a heating pad does for no benefit. If the units with the reversing valves come down in price then maybe it’s make sense, but right now they’re much more...

I typically do a hybrid version of this on my brewdays. The CFC with tap water gets me from 212 to ~80 and the chiller does the last few degrees. Typically that gets me to pitching temp in under an hour for lagers with a 10 gal batch. Trying to do it all with the chiller and a 10gal reservoir...

Yep. Mostly cya. Don’t stick your head in and take a deep breath. High CO2 is legitimately dangerous. We have to watch safety videos at work about working in manholes, and that’s one of the primary dangers. Generally though the theme is a worker goes down, almost instantly passes out and...

I agree with augiedoggy. Jackets are much easier to clean and no matter which way you go, insulation is key. The issue I have with most of the really nice looking conicals on the market is they have little to no insulation. Even if my chiller can keep up, they sweat like crazy in our humid...

It’s been ages since I’ve canned wort, but mine alway came out pretty normal looking and not much darker than an ipa. I typically use light dme and a pressure canner.

Sounds like it has next to no insulation. I have a ac glycol and that runs for 5-10 minutes every 4-6 hours to keep 10 gallons of water in a Colman cooler at 38f, no more often than every 2 hour if i have 2 5 gal fermenters cooling to 50f. This is indoors. Cycling ever 3 minutes is way too often.

I successfully mashed a 3 gallon batch last Sunday in a 20 gallon mash tun. Hit my numbers and all went well. My system is a herms. I did no sparge and have ~1.25 gal in plumbing, so mash thickness was within a decent range. I don’t think I could be successful doing anything smaller. Of...

Very curious to see if this works. I thought about doing something like this a few months back after seeing how much the sensors the guys on the automated brewing forum use cost. I'd thought about finding a square sight glass and mounting the prism on the outside.

Here's the 'typical compliance certification' for the spool Bobby sells: http://typicalcerts.harrisproductsgroup.com/Default.aspx?partno=SB31 It does list NSF 61/NSF 372 compliance there.