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Got enough ingredients on hand for about 7,200 glasses of beer. No need to panic! ;)

Don't overthink it -- 1.045-1.055 of pilsen malt or DME. 15-25 IBU of boil hops, and an ounce of a Noble aroma hop at flameout or whirlpool. The single packet of 34/70 will do fine for a normal strength 5-gallon batch. It's a VERY temperature-tolerant lager yeast. Use the Brulosophy quick...

Yes, as long as there is live yeast, you'll get a lower carb result. You might have to add yeast to commercial beers as most are filtered/centrifuged. It would be simple to start by just doing that to a commercial bottle, with a stopper/airlock, and then when finished fermenting add a carb drop...

Here's what you are looking for: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/calling-all-math-geeks-force-carbonation-math.486647/ Save your own copy of this calculator: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1y3tNmGr9JBByQ8vH4g8QwKSfGWr6Le4fpZgpSkDcf24/

when bottling with sugar (heck, even when kegging with sugar) , I always give a gentle shake a day later to ensure that no stratification is happening. It's easy, might not matter sometimes, might help sometimes.

The amount of yeast shouldn't be the problem -- you'd have to filter or do a VERY good series of cold-crash/transfers to really get almost all yeast gone. If you have a Finishing Hydrometer, you could open one, degass, and measure the gravity to verify that it had consumed the priming sugar and...

either way, quick water rinse and maybe brush the element if it doesn't look cleanish. Don't overthink it. It's all hot-side.

You can also put Reflextix around your kettle to keep in more heat/energy, thus increasing the vigor of the boil.

Ya, I've even pitched 3-month old starters stored at room-temp, still worked fine. It's pretty much how I treat sach trois now. Pitch most of the starter, add some 1.040ish wort to the starter jug, and repeat months later when I do another IPA/PA :D

any Saison, sach trios (WLP644/OYL-200/Juice/etc), any kveik/HotHead I'd choose the sach trios, it's my go-to for IPA/PA now. it is fruity and POF-

Definitely doable. Yes, definitely doable. I did that with a sous vide heater also a few times.

All in one electric is great. There is no quality issue, just a slightly different process to adjust to. I am so glad I don't have to screw with propane, outside, coolers, tiers, etc any more. My system is in this thread...

Why would you think that is a bad idea? Yes, you can boil more hops for a shorter time to hit your IBU goal. Either way, use a basic recipe tool to do your calculation.

Sounds like you understand it properly now. The second boil may be unnecessary, just use whatever heat is necessary to get the DME to dissolve fully.

Interesting, how does it behave differently?

Yup, that's yet another rebranding of WLP644. Great yeast for fruity ales (especially IPAs)

Yup, that works fine. I've used a floor/champagne corker for dry corks of the following types, so far: agglomerate, agglomerate+solid endcaps, and synthetic nomacorks

If you aren't limited to Dry only, WLP644 / OYL200 is quite viable in the high temperature range (I used it at 85F). It is POF-negative, and will give you fruity aromas, and has a very subdued krausen level.

all-stainless/silicon custom built E-BIAB (similar to a brewboss): -rinse grain basket well in sink, dry. for kettle/pump/chiller: -pump out all trub with quick clean water rinse -PBW recirc and quick brush scrub of upper kettle walls (now at 180F) -pump through clean water rinse -partially...

Mine doesn't come clean with just hot PBW re-circulation. It isn't a shiny element, it's the dark grey 5500W Ripple version. I use this: https://www.brew-boss.com/Cleaning-Brush-for-Heater-Elements-p/brush-heater.htm Edit: I increased the strength of the PBW this time, and took it up to 190F...