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I've recently brewed a similar Mexican "Fake". I pitched at 63.5° for 1.5-days. Allowed to free rise to 66°; stayed there 3-days. Then free rise to 72°. Kept it in primary for 3wks prior to cold crashing and kegging. I used S-04 and US-05 to ferment.

I used Premium Tart Cherry Juice Concentrate in a sour recently. On the website, it says it is 68 brix (which is about 1.340 SG) at 32oz. (here's where I put a disclaimer as others are MUCH more well versed in these calculations than I...) But if you wanted to use the concentrate as a...

I flush the keg with sanitizer to fully purge the keg. I attach my hop sack to a second keg lid and quickly swap lids. I'm sure small amount of O2 is entering the keg but honestly, it's even overkill for what I need. It's not like I'm looking for shelf stability. The keg won't last a month...

I cold crash in a conical with CO2 at ~4psi. I add gelatin to my keg (and any dry hops, if warranted) prior to purging. Then use the CO2 to rack to the keg. Best of both worlds. Regarding the no difference between gel'd beer and un-gel'd beer, I can only assume you didn't do something...

There are many different methods. I've had the best lasting results with cold brewed coffee added to secondary/keg. What ever you chose to do, don't just hot brew coffee, let it cool, and add it to the beer. Generally it will be much too bitter and turn vegetal quicker.

Anyone have head issues with beers they used fermcap in fermentation?

I stopped reading right here and haven't read any comments, so if this is already been addressed, please skip over this comment. I think this year's batch of simcoe (available to homebrewers) SUCKS!! I can't get any aroma out of them. I prefer my IPAs to 95% of commercial stuff I can buy...

You talking about one of these? Yes, you can break them down and clean them, although it's a bit of a pain to get them back together. I usually just soak them in Oxyclean when ever I have a batch made. BTW, you can swap those things out in about 10 seconds next time one is giving...

Dial it down. I have the second CO2 canister and regulator so it's no problem. Release pressure on the keg and the gun and keg will be under the same pressure.

I keep a 2nd CO2 canister too, with a dual manifold. I use it for all sorts of things other than the BeerGun; keep pressure on conical while cold crashing, pushing beer from conical to keg, carbing up beer before going into kegorator, and of course, a backup when my primary CO2 canister runs...

I was setting up my recirculating dry hop for my latest IPA yesterday and decided to piece together a couple videos showing my process. I'm sure others have their ways of doing something similar but I thought I'd post to show what I do. Sorry about the poor audio. I didn't realize how long...

I have reused some nasty bags, but only after cleaning. If it smells funky, I won't use it.

This was going to be my question. If you have a sight glass, you can see when all the yeast has dumped. Why use a valve between the sight glass and the conical?

^ Or maybe that's where I got it. I'm not sure. I know it was fairly recent though.

One of the podcasts I listen to, maybe Experimental Brews with Denny and Drew, episode on NEIPAs. They sent some pre and post dry hopped beers off to be testing. The same beer after dry-hopping experienced a slight increase in IBUs (I don't recall how much of an increase).

You do get a small IBU bump from dry hopping. I brew 12gal batches and only use 1/2oz Warrior as my bittering charge. I do a small 15' addition, substantial flameout addition, then huge whirlpool addition. Also, (2) big dry hops. IPAs are plenty bitter.

Not a dubbel, but a quad. I have a dubbel finishing up in primary right now going in to keg soon. I like kegging better because you can dial in your carb levels. Even better when carbing a beer at higher than typical levels.

I'm a huge galaxy fan, but dank it ain't. Super fruity though. I usually pair it with something more dank, like Columbus. Not a fan of sorachi ace at all though. Everyone will have their own preferences. The great thing about craft beers and homebrewing. Options for everyone!

Refractometer for fermented beer is no good without calculations. I'm sure being cold and carbed up also inflated the number. I'd guess it's more about 1.012.

I always ramp up my temps. I've read somewhere (Yeast maybe?) that phenolics and esters are produced in the reproductive stage of the yeast lifecycle. So I generally begin fermentation cool and ramp up. Not that ales need a diacetyl rest, but I generally do a version of one prior to cold...