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I’m not tracking. What’s the problem? Don’t we usually mash around 155 anyway? Maybe off on the beta vs alpha side of it but still.

3 words. Stir. Plate. Magnet.

But I want it nooow ahhh

I bottle but do no use soap. Rinse after opening and Star san before use. It has been at 72 in the bottle for two weeks.

My pH turned out to be 5.0, calculated 5.4.

Interesting. I haven’t heard that before. I’ll try that next time.

What % do you guys usually use for dextrins like Cara foam and Carapils. I have been following my homebrew shops online suggestion of 5%, but I have very little to no head on my last couple beers. And the body is ‘thinner’ than I expected. I do not use dish soap. Pbw and Star San. My beer...

I am using Viking. Sites description is 2.2-3.1. My bag does not say what this batch is specifically. That is higher than normal pale I believe? Could be contributing.

I brewed today. I did a starter with Windsor dry yeast 24hrs in advance (and the pack expired 5/21!) and I have activity in my blow off just after 3 hrs. Probably started 1/2-1 hrs ago by the look of it. I have never had a beer start that quickly, especially dry yeast. Starters work. Update, it...

You were right, zeroing the slaked lime and acidulated malt kept the ph at 5.42, but now my calcium is off 75 points, but the others are still on point. So I will need to play with the additions to get them balanced. Thank you guys for the input. I know better about baking soda and lime now.

I actually got 4.98 on the meter. Yes I used both buffers. I did add the slaked lime. My TDS read 11ppm on the RO water. I have a system hooked up in my kitchen, not from the store. I added that back in the calc and should have got 5.23. I didn’t realized the mash only additions was still...

Ok thank you. I didn’t realize the loci one made a difference with oh. I thought that was more for color. But it makes since now that I think about. Still learning mash. I appreciate the input.

There is a field that you can type this into NXS5995 it should reload the entries. I keep a log of all my stuff and I can go back and reference or make changes by entering these numbers in.

I put the code to pull it up in my last post.

Ok so to revisit this. I brewed this today. https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/ Code was NXS5995 (cap sensitive) the exact grains were: 7lbs 2-row pale 1lb biscuit .5lb crystal 120 .25lb special B .5lb carafoam .75lb acid malt I did change my salt...

I did notice that the reload code is cap sensitive. Try that again. I am trying to make a British Malty ale. Some very ‘English’. Mild hop bitterness, little fuller body.

Regarding this, I always use brewers friend calculator to help me with determining. My current recipe (NXS5995 for ref) I am working on puts me at a ph of 5.38 IF I include the salts in the entire water volume. If I change it to salts in the volume for mash only, it drops to 5.18. This is...

This clears it up. Thanks all. This is where I have been the whole time, but something got me looking down that rabbit hole again.

I usually start with apx 8 gallons of water depending on grist bill. I add my salts based on a 5 gallon batch. I put half my water in the mash and sparge with the second half. But I started thinking I may be wrong here? When adding salt additions to my water (RO) do I want to add it only to the...

My experience only here. And to boot, I have only brewed the same beer twice, so I can not say that doing it one way or the other makes a difference. I have dry pitched on top and rehydrated, and the time seems to be excessive. I once had a US-04 take almost 72hrs to show krausen, may have been...