Cara foam/pils body and head retention

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ike8228

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What % do you guys usually use for dextrins like Cara foam and Carapils. I have been following my homebrew shops online suggestion of 5%, but I have very little to no head on my last couple beers. And the body is ‘thinner’ than I expected.

I do not use dish soap. Pbw and Star San. My beer glasses do go in the dishwasher…if that is the case what would be a good recommendation to ‘prep’ my glasses.

More or less I am trying to increase my head and body.

I typically mash around 155+/5. Would doing a protein rest at a lower temp help more?

Here is my most recent batch
7lb 2row pale
1lb biscuit
.5lb Crystal 120L
.5lb Carafoam
.5lb Acid malt
.25lb Special B

1oz golding at 60 and 5 mins

RO with ‘light and malty’ style additions

Turned out to be 5.5 gallons
4.8%
FG 1.020 which was higher than expected (1.012) but thought that was the dextrins and would give me more body?

Was going for a malty English style ale. Flavor is good, just a little ‘watered down’ but almost not head.

Suggestions to my process or additions.
 
In my exprience, wheat and rye in any form and dry hopping increase head. All the dextrine malts did not work for me. If you search the interwebs, you will see that we are not alone. Also a temperature rest at 72 C and/or 77C helps with head. The protein rest, I tried it and I am not 100% sure yet that it actually does something to the head retention.

Cheers!
 
I usually put in a pound of white wheat, thinking it'll help head formation. Rye is great for both body and head, but it does affect the flavor profile (usually in a good way, I think, but it's not for everything or everyone.) I've had much better luck using flaked barley for body than I have dextrin malt.
 
Protein rest would probably hurt more than it helps. When I want to emphasize foam and head retention with dextrine malts I add them late in the mash - last 10 mins. Left long enough in a full mash, Carapils gets converted mostly to fermentables.
Interesting. I haven’t heard that before. I’ll try that next time.
 
Just a couple thoughts.
Are you bottling the beer? When you wash bottles, any soap residue on them can affect the entire batch. I wash, rinse, then rinse again to be sure to get rid of soap residue.
How long has it been since you brewed this beer? I find that I can get beer to carbonate very quickly but it takes more time to get good heading and body. Perhaps your beer just needs some time at room temperature.
My lighter color beers always have good heading and I don't use carafoam or carapils. The other caramel malts will get you the heading without the carafoam/carapils.
 
You know I stopped using carapils for a nice head. I do think a little weat helps and a protein rest.

And I don’t know the science on this, but when I have really healthy yeast and maintain the ideal temps I also get a nicer head. When it has a beautiful, perfect white krausen the final beer also has a nice head.
 
I agree with the rye and wheat. what I see is a very low pH with that much C-120 and acid malt. I use ~2-4 oz in a grain bill like yours and would be shooting for 5.2. I'll bet you were 4.5-4.8. Light crisp beers are mashed in at low pH, put yours at 5.4 and it will have more body.
 
I agree with the rye and wheat. what I see is a very low pH with that much C-120 and acid malt. I use ~2-4 oz in a grain bill like yours and would be shooting for 5.2. I'll bet you were 4.5-4.8. Light crisp beers are mashed in at low pH, put yours at 5.4 and it will have more body.
My pH turned out to be 5.0, calculated 5.4.
 
Just a couple thoughts.
Are you bottling the beer? When you wash bottles, any soap residue on them can affect the entire batch. I wash, rinse, then rinse again to be sure to get rid of soap residue.
How long has it been since you brewed this beer? I find that I can get beer to carbonate very quickly but it takes more time to get good heading and body. Perhaps your beer just needs some time at room temperature.
My lighter color beers always have good heading and I don't use carafoam or carapils. The other caramel malts will get you the heading without the carafoam/carapils.
I bottle but do no use soap. Rinse after opening and Star san before use.

It has been at 72 in the bottle for two weeks.
 
I bottle but do no use soap. Rinse after opening and Star san before use.

It has been at 72 in the bottle for two weeks.
Between week 2 and the end of week 3 the heading usually improves. It's been suggested that 3 weeks from bottling to opening the first is a good rule of thumb. My darker beers gain in perceived body over time. Check one bottle at 3 weeks, then another at 4 and see if it makes a difference.

I once purchased an extract kit for Robust Porter and was very disappointed as it didn't seem to be anything near robust...until one day it was. I seem to remember that it took more than 2 months. I now leave porters for 3 months before opening and a strong stout gets 6 months. It always seems to be worth the wait.
 
Between week 2 and the end of week 3 the heading usually improves. It's been suggested that 3 weeks from bottling to opening the first is a good rule of thumb. My darker beers gain in perceived body over time. Check one bottle at 3 weeks, then another at 4 and see if it makes a difference.

I once purchased an extract kit for Robust Porter and was very disappointed as it didn't seem to be anything near robust...until one day it was. I seem to remember that it took more than 2 months. I now leave porters for 3 months before opening and a strong stout gets 6 months. It always seems to be worth the wait.
But I want it nooow ahhh
 
head retention is usually done with a double pour? carb to 13-14 psi, then pour rough to get a lot of foam in the glass, then let it sit to couagulate a bit in the air....then gently fill the glass up....you'll get like 1-2"'s above the rim of sturdy head in the glass....
 
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