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Humans can detect H2S at around 0.0047ppm which means it can be at extremely low concentrations and still stink. Plus, I doubt you're beer can produce enough H2S to even come close to the proper fuel to air ratio to cause an explosion. If you are fermenting hundreds of gallons I'd imagine you...

I would like to point out that if you seal your jars then stick them into boiling water wont they will explode?

Plus, milk is pasteurized not sterilized. Thats why an unopened bottle of milk will still spoil after a few weeks. You probably introduced quite a few lactobacillus into the beer. I'd say wait two weeks and see what it smells/tastes like. You never know what could happen.

If you think about it, bag ice has little chance of contaminating your beer. It starts off as tap water which is chlorinated/treated. Then it is frozen and bagged. And since the stuff is meant for human consumption, the facilities have to be relatively clean. Plus, water on its own does not...

I put mine at the foot of my bed. Sure makes my room smell interesting when fermentation is going strong but I am the only one that has to deal with it. If you have a spare bathroom you could put them in the bathtub.

1-Victory Yakima Twilight(saving for my birthday in July) 1-Victory Storm King(also my birthday) 2-Sam Adam's Noble Pils(decent pilsner but I've found its no cheaper than my favorite Prima Pils) 4-Yuengling Lager cans(great beer to make bratwurst with)

All the trouble and expense people go through is because this is a hobby(for most people on here). Much like gardeners know it would be easier to go to the store and buy produce rather than grow it, they still take the time to plant, water, weed, fertilize and harvest a garden. The throw yeast...

While not a beer, you could try Apfelwein. The big thread in the winemaking forum here has people reporting fermenting into the upper 70s without any off flavors.

Kind of ironic saying that when you are on a forum for making ethanol, a substance that you can find a myriad of scientists saying is bad for you. Haha :mug: And why I mentioned using sanitizer after an infection is that an infection generates a very large number of problematic bacteria. So...

I don't know why you have zero faith in them. Star-san is an acid which when diluted is no worse than adding a spritz of lemon juice to a glass of water. Iodophor is iodine, an essential nutrient and added to table salt. In fact, as a backpacker I use iodine tablets at a much higher...

Soap and water removes something like 99.9% of bacteria from hands so can see why this is working. However, if someday you do get an infection, you will have to bring back the sanitizer.

I would go off the total volume of liquid in the bin. Even if you underestimate, the yeast will provide there own heating to raise the temps on their own. I dont think most people completely submerge their carboy in water... I haven't used this method since I have to worry about cooling my...

Aquarium heaters for fish are usually recommended at 5W/gallon for 5F above room temp, 10W/gallon for 10-15F above room temps and 15W+/gallon for 15+F. So for example: If you put your 5 gallons of beer in a carboy into a bin and add 5 gallons of water thats about 10 gallons of water you need...

Why not carb it and chill it now? Refrigeration will keep anything from really taking over.

You are probably done. Seems like many brewers using extract kits, myself included, get stuck at about 1.020. Take a measurement for the next few days and see if it remains constant. If so fermentation is done. However, the beer can be improved by letting it sit on the yeast for a bit longer though.

Might want to think about pitching two packages of the Nottingham. I've seen it recommended to reduce the lag time of the fermentation. And if you want to keep costs down while upping your brew size you could try partial mashes. Perhaps try replacing the first DME addition with a base grain...

I've dumped my hops straight into the primary after fermentation stopped. Only thing I would do differently is use a hop bag of some sort to reduce the amount of beer lost to the trub.

What do you mean explode out of the bottle? And how much sugar are you adding? Are you sure you have close to 5 gallons of beer when you go to bottle? For example, I lose about 0.5 gallon due to yeast/trub so I end up with 4.5 gallons of beer to bottle. If you lose more you could end up with...

I say soak the bottle full with 1/10 dilution of bleach and try it out. Scratches or no, nothing can survive a bleach bath. Look on the bottom and see if it is actually #2 plastic first though.

That is not entirely true. Depending on the type of stainless steel it could very well be magnetic. However, I still would not use a hard drive magnet as a stir bar. http://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae546.cfm