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thanks. that's what I figured, but I never actually heard anything about it.

I wanted to age a couple bottles of homebrew just to see how they taste over time. Might be a silly question, but to age them do I just let the yeast condition in suspension (as they have been) or cold crash them in the fridge for a couple days to knock down most of the yeast, and then age...

Sounds like an ok plan to me (but i've never done it). I'd be careful to make sure when you add the extra volume that your bottle still has enough airspace (goes without saying I guess).

if your OG is 1.060 and your attenuation is 75% turn the 1.060 into 60, and the % into .75 and you can simply do the following formula 60 - (60 * 0.75) = 15 (don't forget to add the 1.0). so, the est. FG is 1.015 (and give or take a couple points). There are many other formulas (variations...

Since I'm new to brewing, this is my first time dealing with the joy and exhilaration of a hop harvest, which is either ongoing or soon approaching. I apologize if it's improper etiquette to inquire or if it is some major trade-secret lol: Anyway, MY QUESTION is what time of the year/where...

your best bet is dead yeast (then you can re-pitch and all is well sans infection). But, at 111, they probably were just angry little dudes who made a ton of nasty fusel alcohols as a rebellion to their hot environment.

if CO2 and foam are going out, then there is likely not much coming in. It is unlikely an infection would occur in that short of time. Moreover, the yeast are already outpopulating any new bacteria/wild yeast that may have found their way in, which will also minimize the risk of perceivable...

Same question for me too.

@boostsr20: 3 gallon batch into 5 gallon carboy. I use whirlfloc (its an IIPAish 1.080 w/ pellet hops). I'd prefer not to use a blowoff, because I only have 5/16ths siphon hosing on hand, but I'd also prefer the beer to not blow all over the closet too (or worse).

if you had a 3 gallon batch at about 1.080 OG in a 5 gallon carboy with traditional sized WLP001 starter, would you even bother using an airlock to start with and go straight for blowoff?

ooooooooooops. Yeah, Yeast don't like temperatures > 90-120. Hotter they are, the angrier they get. above 120 they usually don't survive.

I like this idea. One thing I'd do differently, is keep the last hop addition at the same time. In the regular IPA you have your last hop addition at 5 mins and in the continuous you have it at 4 mins. that extra minute could be a "big deal". DO both at at either 4 mins or 5 mins (doesn't...

you can use hopville.com's beer calculus to get a pretty accurate OG#. But AZ's # looks pretty close to right just at first glance without thinking too thoroughly about ppg.

great beer results either way.

Big beer for your first! To know if it is done fermenting, you need to have unchanged consecutive (over a day or three) hydrometer readings. But for a big beer like that, you need to let it sit for a few weeks anyway (minimum). So don't even worry about it and take an FG before you bottle for...

Still inexperienced in brewing, so I'm looking for some feedback for an IPA recipe (any additions or subtractions) I love IPAs and am interested in experimenting with different hop combinations (to get a better idea of what hop flavors I enjoy most). This is for a 3 gallon batch--extract...

Ok, cool. Thanks for the advice!

When buying hops from some of the online retailers (like farmhouse brewing for instance), they mention 2010 (I assume crop year). Is it a bad idea to purchase hop pellets of this age? Or does it not matter? I know the alpha acids degrade over time, but it does say "current alpha acids"...

Bummer that it is too sweet. On a lighter note, just throw in a hop or two everytime you open it :)

higher temperature = faster fermentation. Which is why high temps are bad. yeast get a little sloppy and produce off flavors (non technical terms). In the future, look up swamp cooler. Cheap and easy way to get a little control on temperature. Also, don't judge fermentation by airlock...