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I mostly do what GPP33 dose. As a new brewer try and work on the basics first. Don't worry too much about the little things yet. As you learn the process you can find tune it to minimize O2 exposure. As for O2 and oxidation, a keg does not last long enough around my house for it to be a problem.o_O

Count me in! Thanks!

Count me in!

When mine was wall mounted it was higher than 40". The sample port will be even higher. I find it a lot easier to bottle with it higher. Not as much bending over to wear on my old back. I hope you enjoy using your FastFerment as much I have mine.

A simple grain bill and hop schedule like a SMaSH as mentioned above keep things simple as you learn the all grain process. I like Maris Otter as a base malt for my house ale that is a SMaSH with Mosaic hops. Mash temp control and water chemistry are important in all grain brewing. I use a...

Scientific hippie, I definitely recommend adding the sample valve. Much easier to bottle off of that than the bottom valve.

I don't have experience with the 3 gallon size but with the larger unit. i just leave the valve open. Most times the air bubble from the collection ball will break it up. If not it usually drops on its own after a while. I have read that the 3 gallon size is more prone to clogging than the...

Scientific hippie, I have been using a FastFerment for almost two years and 27 batches of beer. I only do a complete disassembly ever dozen batches. PBW soak and rinse after use and StarSan soak just before use and you don't need to disassemble every time. Yes you do need to clean the flash off...

Consistently hit 90%+ conversion efficiency (Brewers Friend Calculator). Crush at .022"

My mash efficiency jumped by 8 to 10% after I started malt conditioning and dropped my mill gap to .022" . Never had a stuck runoff either. Sounds like my process is the same as yours. I am also a lifetime AC/DC fan. Also LOVE Seattle. Lived there for 3 years back in the early 80's.

5 gallon food grade buckets with gemma lids also. But years? A 50 pound sack only lasts me a couple of months At the most! I only buy specialty malts as needed so I don't store them more than a week or two.

too cold? Nope, had 6 inches on the ground by the time I finished. Brew on!

I have been overbuilding starters for over a year. I have only been brewing for about 18 months. The only yeast i buy is if I want to use a strain that I haven't used yet. My house yeast WLP001 and WLP007 have been going for over a year with no problems. My only cost is DME and that is cheap...

My kegerator is sized for a commercial half barrel. It will hold 3 five gallon corny kegs. I have a 2 faucet tower and if I have 3 kegs going I use a picnic tap on the third. That gives me plenty of room for multiple beers on tap. I found mine on Craigslist for $75.

I have used yeast that were stored for over 3 months. Anything older than a couple of weeks i build a starter to get the cell count back up. I store mine in half pint mason jars. The small size take up less room in my brewery fridge. I am also in the over build starter camp. I feel the yeast...

I have used the Walmart distilled water without issues. It's cheap insurance for my brews as my tap water is awful.

I also use a jumper from the gas in port to the airlock port on top of the fermenter of avoid pulling air / O2 in while transferring.

I believe I installed the sample port about 2inches above the valve.

Correct, I fill the keg through the liquid out post. I just use gravity. I have the fermenter above the keg and never had problems getting the beer to flow. I am not sure why it does not work for you. As long as the quick disconnect is properly connected it should open the poppet and let beer...

Doing a closed transfer depends on what you ferment in. I use a FastFerment and hook a jumper from the sample port to the liquid in post of the keg and a C02 return line to the airlock port from the gas in port of the keg. It can be done from a carboy with the proper equipment. I would...