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I owe it all to you Doug. Thanks for all your help. I couldn't have done it without you're explanations. As well as everyone else that on this thread that chipped in. Thank you all.

I know this is getting old but just wanted to show the finished (some what) product. So far all testing is okay and both my GFCI breakers are working. It did trip my spa panel once but nothing was connected to it. Anyways here's the pictures

Thanks man looks awesome. That's exactly what I had in mind. If I could buy you a beer I would.

Side profile. I still need to add another layer a paint drill the holes for power supply coming in and for the heating element plug.

It's been a little while since had an update. So this is what I have thus far.

I went with the syl-2352. I bought it before I read your recommendation. Element I wanted to run 240v but a lower wattage element. I have a 25A SSR and I didn't think I'd need that much power in the tube. The connection I wanted to use is from brewers hardware in Huntington Beach CA, for the...

Okay so attached is my diagram but I'll explain what I have and see if my dreams are compatible. So I wanted power going in through a contactor and that being switched by my E-stop and a power switch. I realized that is going to be two switches controlling the same thing. Next I wanted 3-4...

Hey Doug, I've heard through the grape vine your the man when it comes to wire diagrams. Any chance you could help me out? I have another preliminary sketch but I need to change it again.

Thanks man. Useable space on the front cover is about 6"x8" it's about 4 3/4" deep. It's kind of a tight fit but there's enough space for everything to be run cleanly.

I wanted to get everything set up In the box before I draw a diagram. I understand what your saying, the load would be minimal on the 120v (just a pump). I guess a more specific question would be if I pull power to the pid should I just use one leg? Or because I'm switching 240v should I wire...

I was thinking power comes in through the contacts and splits into separate legs in the box. Basically everything in the box is powered by 120v except the heating element. I was trying to figure out if I can use 120v on the PID and low voltage/amperage side of the SSR and 240v on the high side?

Another update and a question. Can I use 120v leg to control my relay and PID but use the other side of the relay as 240v to heating element? And I got some parts in..

Well a few updates. I drilled my holes for the switches and set my light configuration. A little has changed given my useable space because the door lock and the water proof seal on the door. But this is my update. Waiting for the wire and the DIN rail to come in. Also going to paint the box...

Thanks, good info. As of now it will be one chugged pump on the 120v and heating element 240v. I'll most likely keep this configuration for a few years before I make the full move to all electronic items and ditch propane.

I was going to split into 4 wires in a spa breaker. From what I gathered I believe it will still be GFCI if I go that route. Maybe not to code or standards but as long as it's safe I don't care.

My main supply can be 240 and I can just run all 120 inside my box right? I can just use the 240 and split it all on BUS bars right? Should I use a 120v element? I haven't even gone down the road of selection. But I think I'm going to use brewers hardware TC fitting.

Close to my outlet. I have a gfci 120v outlet in my garage. I just wanted room to grow into all electric at some point So the 240v is next to my work surface and 120 isn't. I have plenty of extension cords though. And my lack of knowledge on RIMS I just opted to go 240v. I've been thinking it...

From left to right I want, pump, element, system power. The fourth LED isn't 240v but can I use it for another purpose?

Here's what I have with a chalk line drawn for my useable space.

I swapped the K-type for an RTD sensor and I'm running one element and a pump. Not familiar with BIAB I just wanted to add a RIMS system to my current brewing. Thanks for all the help guys. I'm still going to work on a true wire diagram. I'll post it as soon as I can