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I started with All Grain straight away, the mashing process isn't something to be scared of if you look at what it really is. Just add hot water to grains, let it sit for an hour and then collect the liquid. I'd recommend to have a word with the brewmaster what kind of beer your water is...

Amebix - Nobody's driving

I primary for 3-4 weeks and then bottle, and usually dry hop for a week, so I start dry hopping after 2-3 weeks. But you can start as soon as the air lock doesnt bubble as much if you are in a rush or gonna dry hop a long time.

Something like a turbid mash that is "continuously grained" (like DFH hops, you add the grain over time) came to mind.

If you can get your hands on some Pacific Jade they might fit in there. Planning to do a Saison with it myself, just a ~10 min addition large enough to get the IBU's up.

Assuming that the beer has "normal" alcohol % and that the amount of scotch isn't gigantic it will be fine. Just compare the percentage of your beer and how much the yeast strain can handle.

Damn, didn't think about that, if I brew it again for next summer that will be fixed.

Appearantly there was no color left in the printer, kind of screwed me over. :mad: But some crayons for the 50 and random pencils for the badboy saved the day. Badboy IPA: This: Turned into this: 50 Centennial, was supposed to be: what i got: Altough this look kinda...

I haven't went that deep into water chemistry (saving that 'til autumn) but I recall that checking mash pH at mash temperature you want a pH around 5.7 or so, but at room temperature you want 5.2. I don't know if that helps in hindsight but it's worth checking out, just in case you missed that...

Well, it's not something that I strive to recreate. But, looking back at some pics I took, the wort I drained (did vorlauf a couple of litres) looks just as clear as I remembered it. And the endospermy parts appeared once it had started boiling and the initial foam had gone down. Could've been...

Discharge - Never Again

Bottled it just a moment ago, as I had to chose between bottling after 11 days or leave it in primary until september. grain bill: 5.25 kg Pale ale malt (95.45%) 0.25 kg Melanoidmalt (4.55%) hops: 25 gm centennial @ 25 min (25 gm is just shy of 1 oz) 25 gm centennial @ 15 min 50 gm centennial...

Why do different strains have different attenuation? Shouldn't they all be able to eat the same sugars?

Sure there is, First wort a part, add lots at 5 mins and flame out, then hopback and finish it off with some dry hopping.

Ah, I just did a quick search and found the Mp3s.

Ah, thanks, I was thinking of calling it "heart" first. I guess I'll return in a couple of weeks to report back if I noticed something or not.

As far as I know that's not long enough to cause grassy flavors, so it should be fine.

Somehow i ended up with a decent amount of the "white part" in my kettle, do these contain tannins aswell or is it only the husk? Or is some other astringency to be expected? Edit: should be tannins in thread, not astringency...

+6 gallons "50 Centennial IPA" 15,548.5

Haha, didnt believe it, so i checked it out. Mp3's of their albums, wonder if it's been Ok'd with the band, seeing as they dont have a website/myspace/whatever, dont promote themselves or anything. Straight up anti corporate DIY! :rockin: