Search results

Bru'n Water is absolutely worth it. It has a bit of a learning curve but read the instructions and help text associated with many of the cells and it will make sense. If you're just going to use RO water, you don't even need to enter water data. Just choose 100% dilution with RO on the mineral...

Here it is. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=198460

I've been using the same wing capper for 5 years. When I first got it I broke a couple of bottles because I was using WAY too much pressure. ProblemChild had it right. Use steady downward pressure. I also rest my bottles on a dish towel while capping so they don't slip. And yes, the short collar...

There's a sticky right at the top of this forum on making NA beer. Here's the link. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=39433

Drop it slowly over 12 hours or so and you should be OK. Too fast might shock the yeast. When I brew lagers I cool to the mid 60s, pitch the yeast and slowly cool it in my ferm chamber to low 50s over 24 hours and the yeasties do fine.

I agree with all of the above. However, I do keep a lid resting on top of my bottling bucket while I bottle. I tend to have fruit flies around and even one in your wort will turn your beer to vinegar in no time :(

Step 1 - go to the Ward Labs website, get info on how to submit a water sample and then send one in. Step 2 - Read at least the first few pages of the Water Chemistry Primer in the Brew Science forum while you wait for the results. Step 3 - Based on steps 1 & 2, decide if your water is usable...

Golden light is good and extra light of you want to go even lighter.

It's almost always stirring. It takes stirring a lot longer than you think to get proper mixing.

Before I had a heat wrap and controller, I would occasionally use a small space heater aimed at the fermenter about 12-18" away if I needed to bump up the temp a bit. As long as I kept a close eye on it, it did surprisingly well. I just monitored the wort temp and adjusted the heater thermostat...

Try a swirl again and give it more time. If it's still stuck you could try some amylase enzyme to get it restarted.

When I first started BIAB, I got about 70%. I started doing a double crush and went up to 75%. Then I started doing a slow (30 - 45 min) "modified fly sparge" (a perforated HD bucket suspended over the grain bag) and got 80%. I did try a super fine crush once but, while it did improve my mash...

If you want 2 full cases, shoot for about 5.5 gal into the fermenter. Assuming about 3 - 4 qts of trub after fermentation, you will end up around 4.5 - 4.75 gal in your bottling bucket, which is about 48 bottles.

That's probably a good number to assume for your first brew. I use BS2 mobile. When you set up your equipment profile you can pick one of their preset BIAB profiles that is closest to your system and then edit it to fit your system exactly. When you open up an equipment profile, the first entry...

My experience has been that it needs time to finish. I had a 1.078 brew that dropped to 1.008 at one week and then dropped another 4 points over the next two weeks. Another bigger beer dropped 3 points between weeks 3 and 5. I usually wait for 3 days of steady SG before I bottle. With 3711 I...

I got that same card from my daughters! Loved it.

That's great. Good thing you don't make Chardonay :mug:

My point was not that 65% is good efficiency but that a consistent 65% is preferable to efficiency that varies randomly between 75% - 85%. If your efficiency varies by as much as 10 points with each new brew, you never know what beer you'll end up with. Once you get consistent results from your...

As has been said already, pick some simple low- to mid-gravity brews and brew them a few times to get your process consistent. You need to be able to have repeatable results. Consistency is the goal. If you brew the same thing twice and get OGs that are 10 points apart, it means your process...

Cinnamon faces quite a bit over time. Don't know about chipotle.