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I think the inductance of the coil has a more significant affect on the current draw than resistance. To illustrate, I have a 120V contactor coil with a resistance of 340 ohms that only draws 45 mA. If you were to calculate it with ohms law you'd get 353 mA.

I just finished my control panel schematic and was hoping to get some constructive criticism before I start wiring it up. Here is a link to the schematic: schematic This is for a two tier, single pump system with electric HLT and separate electric heat exchanger, which will just be a 2...

Control Schematic

Good to hear. I'll definitely be trying your technique.

Exactly. It's going to be an electric HLT and I need the temperature to be consistent throughout the vessel.

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll give it a shot and let you know how it works out.

Any reason this gear motor wouldn't work as a stirrer for an HLT? https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-930&catname=electric It's rated for continuous duty and the price is certainly right, but the 1/100 HP rating is questionable.

Interesting. Maybe there's something to that. I made a beer with 565 once and while it was good, it wasn't all that duponty tasting. You'll have to let us know how it turns out.

SdP = Saison Dupont. Just curious how you're going to get extra funk from it. My understanding is that WLP 565 is the same strain as Dupont.

Thanks for the input. I ended up finding another jar of washed yeast in the back of the fridge so I'm going to use that.

So I made a starter last night of WLP023 and put it into my fermentation chamber. I got home this afternoon and realized that I mistakenly plugged the heater into an outlet thats on all the time (instead of the switched outlet controlled by the thermostat). The temperature in the chamber was...

In my mind the issue is more how fast it will work. GFCI's have to operate in as little as 25 milliseconds. This includes the time to drop out the relay. The manufacturer certifies that certain relays meet this criteria, but yours may or may not. I wouldn't be comfortable using a...

Yeah, I had a good chuckle when I read the seller's description too. "Just wire them so nothing smokes" is my favorite. However, based on the actual instruction manual, it looks like they actually should work, provided you use one of the few contactors specifically mentioned in the manual...

I haven't built my RIMS yet, but I am planning on installing a flow switch on the outlet of the RIMS. I bought one one ebay for $25 similar to this: http://cgi.ebay.com/GEMS-FS-380-FLOW-SWITCH-183431-P-N-1-GPM-/400211962668?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2e7deb2c#ht_1928wt_1141 The flow...

You could swap out 4 existing breakers with tandems (ie: http://www.drillspot.com/products/278745/cutler-hammer_br1515_2-15a_single_pole_tandem_breaker ) to make room for a new breaker for your load center. Just did this at my house as a matter of fact.

Do you plan on tuning the PID on high or low? I would think low would be best for maintaining a constant temp, but maybe you'd overshoot when ramping up to a higher temp on high?

Good luck with the first brew. Did you test out the system with water? Just curious how well the RIMS works at two different power levels.

Thanks Catt. Definitely don't want any chemicals leaching into my sparge water. I think I'll just try the sight glass option since I need one anyways. I was anticipating the need to stir the sparge water in some fashion to eliminate temperature stratification, so maybe it won't be such a big...

Thanks. Do you mean something like this: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/4101/BFA%20Series%20Bulkhead%20Fittings It says it has left hand threads. Is this the outside thread that secures the bulkhead to the cooler?